HVAC controls - 1982

[Wolfe1013]

Are these available as replacements? I could have sworn I saw one in an online catalog somewhere but when I looked a while back, couldn't find it again.

[Wolfe1013]

*sigh* it looks like I need to pull the dash and look at this more in depth, eh? May explain why the a/c doesn't work. Fan blows out the bottom, but that's it.

[ImEvil1]

I'm not aware of repops of those. I needed one for my '83 and ended up buying one on eBay. Good luck sorting yours out.

[28HopUp]

Greg, are you a member on Four Eyed Pride Forums (http://www.vb.foureyedpride.com/)? They are a great resource for us early SSP owners. You may be able to find a good used one there.

[GSPI]

Vacuum leaks suck! I know that the M-body Chryslers were notorious for vacuum connector leaks. The rubber/plastic connectors did deteriorate in many cars of that era and you would have a problem with vent doors directing the air around the cabin. When you take a look at it, try to find a diagram of the vacuum system for the interior to see if there are disconnect points. Normally the plastic vacuum tubes would hold up but the rubber connectors would not. I've had to refashion a connector from new rubber vacuum hose (1/8th" inner diameter usually) to correct the problem.

Good luck!

[Wolfe1013]

Thanks, guys. Yes, I'm a member over on 4EP. I just could've sworn that I had seen one new somewhere. The fan level switch is loose in its mount. Maybe something I can repair, not sure.

GSPI, on both my '91 Crown Vic and my '92 Camaro, I've spent the time and effort to replace most if not all vacuum lines under the hood and some of the connectors. That will be a goal with this car as well.

[Wolfe1013]

I finally got brave enough to tackle this job. I've been wanting to get my gauge cluster back together, but not with this looming over me.

I pulled the dash loose and leaned it forward to give me access to the HVAC components. This is where the duct tape was. It was covering a crack across the top of the box.

What do you think? Repair or replace? This is totally out of my realm. Never been this deep into a restoration before.

[ImEvil1]

That should be a pretty easy fix. Replace the cover, or just remove it and repair it (your call). You might want to replace the heater core while you're in there, but be sure to replace the butyl-type gasket in there, too. If not, you'll end up replacing the core again soon. I've never done it on a 4-eyed car, but I had that problem when I did my '93 coupe.

[NoDrama43]

gut it..... take some good pictures as you take it apart if that will help you put it back together. No way would I ever get as far as you are and then not change the core out. If the heater box is cracked i would replace it also.

It appears to be a daunting task to get all that apart, but it actually isn't that bad of a job.

[Wolfe1013]

I was thinking the same thing about the heater core, I just didn't know if the box could be repaired or if I had to buy an entire assembly. Like I said, I've never made any repairs or replacements of this sort.

Time to start studying. :) Thanks guys.

[NoDrama43]

The heater box on my 90 Colorado car has a huge crack and was ductaped the same way. Another member here had an extra one out of a low mile car for me to put back in it. I would not worry about a repair unless you know it will last forever. You only want to do this one time.

[ImEvil1]

It's just the top that's cracked, right?

[Wolfe1013]

I believe it's just the top. I wasn't sure how it was constructed, so I've been doing some homework and through the years, they look similar. Is that just a lid that covers the heater core? Are there more than the two screws I can see?

I was afraid I would have to replace the entire box assembly but it does look much simpler than that now.

[ImEvil1]

Yep...just the top. Can't remember the number, it's been 1996 since I did my last one.

[Wolfe1013]

Oh, btw, I will be needing a replacement switch control box if I can't find some way to anchor those individual switches to the unit. Tabs are broke off and that's why the fan selector level was wobbly. I'll be trying to restore this one while looking for a matching replacement.

Anybody got one? Oh yeah, how do the knobs come off. Don't want to break them!! I'm learning to ask MORE questions before tugging. LOL

[ImEvil1]

Oh, btw, I will be needing a replacement switch control box if I can't find some way to anchor those individual switches to the unit. Tabs are broke off and that's why the fan selector level was wobbly. I'll be trying to restore this one while looking for a matching replacement.

Anybody got one? Oh yeah, how do the knobs come off. Don't want to break them!! I'm learning to ask MORE questions before tugging. LOL

They just pull off.

[Wolfe1013]

They just pull off.

Well, actually, I found in one of my manuals to put a flat screw driver on the back side of the knob and pull toward you - there's a metal spring catch that holds them on. :)

With all the research I've done, I've decided that one of the previous owners or mechanics just cut the lid over the heater core instead of removing a couple screws to allow the whole box to drop enough to properly get the lid off. From what I've seen there are a total of 5 screws that hold that lid on.

So, the duct tape I found was just to seal that crack where they cut the lid. I'll remove that piece and take a peek at the heater core, hopefully tomorrow. Was out of town until late tonight, so I didn't have a chance to look closer yet.

[NELSON]

Oh, btw, I will be needing a replacement switch control box if I can't find some way to anchor those individual switches to the unit. Tabs are broke off and that's why the fan selector level was wobbly. I'll be trying to restore this one while looking for a matching replacement.

Anybody got one? Oh yeah, how do the knobs come off. Don't want to break them!! I'm learning to ask MORE questions before tugging. LOL

My dad has the heater/AC box and the control out of a 83. You can contact him over on .ORG Just PM him 85kyssp

[ImEvil1]

Right...it's just a friction fit.

Sad that they hacked it up, but another lid should be pretty easy to find.

[Wolfe1013]

My dad has the heater/AC box and the control out of a 83. You can contact him over on .ORG Just PM him 85kyssp

Thanks!!

[Wolfe1013]

Heater core exposed, pic 1.

[Wolfe1013]

Pic 2...a pretty clean cut after all. Sure would make it easy to swap out. Mike, what was that butyl seal you were talking about? How sealed up should this lid be? If you notice, the top edge of the front wall of the box below the heater core lid has been cut, too. I don't think this will allow the lid to completely seal.

[ImEvil1]

It's under the core....man that thing is jacked up. :No no:

[Unmrkd]

If this is a keeper, your best move would be to replace the whole deal. That way you won't have any future issues with the heater core and A/C. It's a PITA but once it's done right - it's DONE. Good luck.

[MOstang]

I was going to add the same thing. Think of it this way, once you get all the equipment installed it will be a major pain if you have to come back later to deal with the heater core. You'll sleep easy knowing that's out of the way.

[1989 Tx DPS SSP]

Most likely did the Heater Core only so they didn't have to pull the Freon out of the System to get the whole box out.

Tom

[Wolfe1013]

Ugh!! I've never attempted anything like this before. Outside temps are much better, so maybe I can get back on this soon. It got way too hot to even think about working on this.

Guess I have to start looking for a complete box assembly. :No no:

[sspanthony]

I think I may have an extra heater box that I may be able to help you out....

[Wolfe1013]

Whoah!! Awesome!! That would be great if you do.

[ImEvil1]

I think I may have an extra heater box that I may be able to help you out....

I'm looking for one, too, if you have more.

[FHP813]

Can you imagine how many of those are crushed (in junkyards) on a daily basis?

[MOstang]

If you decide to take on yourself, this tech article will help. I like the quote on the first page of the article, "Next time we'll opt for a root canal instead".

Link to page 1 of article...

http://public.fotki.com/MOstang/periodical-articles/tech-articles/mustang-monthly-8.html

The article is slides #38 through #43 in the above album.

[Wolfe1013]

If you decide to take on yourself, this tech article will help. I like the quote on the first page of the article, "Next time we'll opt for a root canal instead".

Link to page 1 of article...

http://public.fotki.com/MOstang/periodical-articles/tech-articles/mustang-monthly-8.html

The article is slides #38 through #43 in the above album.

Thanks!! I had found two other articles, all of them for the later Foxes. Same procedure, I just didn't have as much to remove, not having a console. I want to remove the entire box to clean it out, whether I replace it or not. I'm trying to find someone to evacuate the R12 if there's even any in there. Problem is, I wasn't planning on this, so I now have a stationary car and will have to have someone come to the house to do that.

I found a 1986 Mercury Capri yesterday at a local salvage yard. My chin dropped when I saw an identical tan dash to mine. It's in really good shape. I can get it for $47. I want to keep my original CHP dash, but I would love to get this one for a spare. It's actually in better shape than mine. I may go back this weekend to see if it's still there and grab it.

Would the 1986 heater box match my 1982? I didn't even think to look at it's condition (brain fart). I was at the yard helping a friend and took a look at the Fords while there. Was not expecting to find this car.

[Wolfe1013]

I think I may have an extra heater box that I may be able to help you out....

Any update? Have you had a chance to look yet? The heat is starting to break here and I'm ready to get back on this project.

After much wrangling and two trips in one day, I managed to get that dash out of the '86 Capri, but the heater box did not match. When the battle to get the dash was over, I discovered what must have been an aftermarket a/c system. It was bolted to the back side of the dash which is why it wouldn't come out after following the same steps to remove the one in my '82.