1982 CHP #0327

[chp1982]

Reluctantly, I had to part ways with 1982 CHP #0513 earlier in the year. I had no intentions of replacing it in the near future, however #0327 came along and fortunately the seller and I were able to work out a deal.
The seller happened to be the son of the original owner. He told me that his father intended to buy one of the ’82 CHP Mustangs when they were retired and became available at auction. According to the seller, his father went to the auction and looked over many of the ’82’s along with their paperwork and maintenance history and decided that #0327 was the one for him. He used it as a daily driver for many years, maintaining the car but not putting any money into it that he didn’t have to. Around 2000, the father passed away and the son took the car from CA home to Washington. Although the car sat for a while, it needed very little to run and drive and make the trip to WA. Aside from some sentimental value to the son, it was just a car, making trips around WA and one trip to Canada.
#0327 has had numerous maintenance items replaced and repairs made recently including a clutch, alternator, heater core, two tires, water pump, etc. When the son replaced the clutch, he saw yellow writing on the pressure plate. He thought his father had put a junk yard clutch in the car. Upon further inspection, the writing said “CHP SACTO”. The car was never modified in any way except the replacement of the front seats. The son said the officer must have been a big guy because the seat was in terrible shape. Unfortunately the original front seats are long gone as is any paperwork that his father saved over the years.
After a 5 day trip from Seattle, #0327 arrived today in Atlanta. The car was absolutely filthy from a couple storms along the way but otherwise sound. I put about 3 miles on the clock and it runs pretty well. The car is accident and rust free, less some minor rot under the battery and decklid. The CHP auction paint is present and flaking off everywhere.
Below are some pictures of #0327 getting loaded up outside of Seattle, unloaded in Atlanta, and getting a quick wash. One very interesting item are the addition of lap belts. The passenger side has the receptacle however I see no evidence that a belt was ever installed. The driver sided has a full set. They look correct for the period. Is this a CHP addition?
There is essentially zero budget for the car at this point however there is plenty of work to do, especially on the interior. Lots of mildew. I will keep you guys up-to-date of any progress.
Last but not least, thanks to all who offered to assist with checking the car out or arranging to have someone take a look at it. I appreciate you guys.

[NoDrama43]

excellent !! that one is another excellent candidate for a resto. Glad you got the car !

[Mustang Kid]

Congradulations!:2thumbs:
I'm glad someone on the forum got it. Many of us should be buying these cars up like you did. You can talk about getting one, but when you are ready to buy, they could all be gone.
Kinda the same condition as my car was, almost all original and fairly nice. Looks like NoDrama's car too.
I cant wait to see more pics and progress:) Thanks for saving it.
(And btw, don't use a pressure washer or compressed air on the paint. Paint will go flying!. Paint came off the trunk jams on my car with a normal garden hose and sprayer:D )

[15559]

One very interesting item are the addition of lap belts. The passenger side has the receptacle however I see no evidence that a belt was ever installed. The driver sided has a full set. They look correct for the period. Is this a CHP addition?


Those add on lap belts are correct. I believe motor transport quit installing them in vehicles in the late 80's

[ImEvil1]

Congrats and good luck with the resto.

[28HopUp]

Glad to see that you were able to bring 0327 home. Here's the thread on the car being for sale -

http://www.specialservicemustang.net/forums/showthread.php?t=3904


Congratulations! :D

[1jerryl]

What year seats are those?? Are they Crystal blue by chance?? If so, I am looking for some and would gladly take them off your hands....






Jerry
91 X-SCHP 2-12-311
90 X-NCSHP Caprice
77 Nova 9C1
83 Malibu 9C1 (Coming Soon)

[mac88chp]

Congratulations on the purchase, it looks to be an excellent starting point. :cool:

Hope you're the first on the block to actually complete an '82 CHP restoration...there seems to be a virtual fleet of them out there in some stage of progress/waiting.

[chp1982]

Thanks everyone. Unfortunately she won't be restored for a long time but will be driven, enjoyed, and improved upon. Taking a pressure washer to this thing is tempting. I'd love to know what the paint looks like under the crappy auction job. The original paint visible under all the flaking areas looks pretty good.

I removed the interior and no sign of the buildsheet. Looks like during 0327's prep for auction, a few screws were left un-installed on some of the trim pieces. Fortunately, most were under the rear seat. I'm dealing with and tossing the insulation pieces responsible for the mildew smell. It's not horrible but it isn't good either. The carpet and seatbelts are getting steam cleaned today at a work contact's detail shop.

The floorpans are clean of rust except for some light surface rust on the seat reinforcement welds. Interestingly, the passenger side does have identical holes to the driver side where the lap belt is installed. I will have to check the carpet again but it really did not look like a belt was ever installed on the passenger side.

[chp1982]

Got the carpet and belts back today and holy smokes the belts look great! The carpet is worn but very clean now at least. I checked the carpet and the passenger side does have a hole where the lap belt was installed. I'd definitely like to find another one at some point.
Lastly, the horrible window tint is completely removed. What a huge difference that made.

[chp1982]

The first time in 10+ years that 0327 is sitting inside when it's raining, and that was just about every day in Seattle. Stinky interior to prove it!

[Rhino]

Jonathan - glad to see you snagged this one! Yes, it rains...a lot, here in Seattle. And we're constantly fighting moisture inside cars. Glad to see it inside. :)

Looks like a great starting point for a restoration.

[Wolfe1013]

Awesome, Jon!! Great news.

Wow, those belts and the carpet really did turn out great. I need to go ahead and get mine cleaned. Who do you take them to? I don't have a pressure washer, yet.

My car was the same way - missing passenger CHP lap belt. Buckle was there. Driver side complete. So if you find a stash of CHP passenger lap belts, let me know!!

Can you take a detail photo of your headliner? Perforated vinyl like the sun visors?

[Wolfe1013]

Hope you're the first on the block to actually complete an '82 CHP restoration...there seems to be a virtual fleet of them out there in some stage of progress/waiting.

You said it, Michael. Money is tight right now and my resto is stalled!! :(

[chp1982]

Greg-
The detail department of one of the dealerships I work with sprayed something on them to lift the stains and something to fight the mildew smell then pressure washed them. I stressed to the guy that did the work how gentle to be with the rug. It's pretty thin in a couple areas. Everything came out great.

The headliner material looks the same as the visors.

[Mustang Kid]

Any new updates? These other CHP threads get me motivated to finish mine even more!:D

[chp1982]

Thanks for the interest Sam. 0327 has been enjoyed thoroughly over the past 5 months. I've put about 50 miles on her around town and running some local errands. When the car arrived, the headlights and a only few other parking and turn signals worked. I replaced most of he bulbs and every light on the car now works incuding the maplight! The interior was reinstalled and turned out pretty great, considering its age. I sold the blue front seats that the car came with and installed a set of Sand Beige fronts that I had. I installed a battery cut-off switch as well. So far I have spent a whopping $25 bucks! That includes the repo CA plate. The list is long for what the car needs mechanically and cosmetically but my budget reminds me often that this is going to be a slow and steady process.

[chp1982]

Here's a shot with the "new" front seats. What's the harm in one more shade of tan! Better than blue it came with. The rear seat is original and in nice shape.

[chp1982]

Speaking of seats, since buying 0327 I have been on the hunt for the correct front seats and any French Vanilla trim I could find. Well, the search finally paid off and I found a seat out of an '82 Capri with 100K along with all of the coupe specific trim. The passenger seat is in very nice condition, the driver, not so much. The good news is the rears are in very good shape and I will have more than enough upholstery to have the driver side repaired. They are currently at a buddy's in DC and will slowly be making their way to Atlanta over the next couple weeks. I couldn't be more excited to complete the interior with the correct seats.

[Mustang Kid]

Looks a lot better:) Where did you find nice 85-6 front seats?
I just steam cleaned my carpet and seats for my 85. It all cleaned up nice like your interior did, but my seats are really faded along with the trans tunnel on the top.

Since your car has the original repaint, a good hosing with a pressure washer would probably strip most of the white off. Tape to the door jam will remove some of the repaint and will uncover the unit #. Worked on my car.

I wish I could get my dads 82 out and cleaned up...

[chp1982]

I found the seats on CL. They came out of a low mile '86 Capri. They are comfy but I can't wait to get the original style French Vanilla seats back in.

Grab the weedwacker and get your dad's '82 out! Did he ever buy that maroon one?

[chp1982]

Two weeks turned into almost 4 months but after a long drive from DC the correct seats for 0327 finally made it to Atlanta yesterday. After a thorough cleaning and replacement of some hardware on the driver seat, they are installed along with much better looking kick panels, kick plates, and misc. trim pieces I got as well. From French Vanilla to Regatta Blue, to Sand Beige, and now finally back to French Vanilla!

[MOstang]

Looks great! :thumbsup:

[chp1982]

The driver seat needs some attention but the passenger seat is in superb condition. I was able to get the rears as well and decided to use the bottom as it was in better shape than my original. Being from a hatch, the top of the rear seat is near identical to the coupe's but will most likely be the donor for the driver seat. I couldn't be happier with the finished (for the time being) product and the fact that 0327 now has the last of the key parts it was missing when I got it.

[chp1982]

Over the past couple weeks a buddy and I have given 0327 some much needed attention. Rotors, pads, brake hoses, bearings, shocks, struts, sway bar end links, tires, coolant temp sensor, lower radiator hose, and a bunch of odds and ends from an '82 in the junkyard (thanks for the heads up Greg) including a charcoal canister, correct onion head strut mount, oil cap, radiator cap, and a hood emblem for good measure. The goal continues to be to use Motorcraft or original parts wherever possible.
The final pieces came together this morning when I picked up my virtually brand new BFG's, got them mounted, installed, and bled the brakes.
I took her out for a test drive tonight and wow, what an entirely different car! Everything works so well together. I really couldn't be more pleased with the outcome.

[chp1982]

Since the car was up in the air and apart, I took the opportunity to clean the underside. Absolutely everything was caked in dirt and grease but after hours upon hours of scrubbing and degreasing, 0327 weighs at least 3lbs less!

While I was scrubbing the gas tank I was surprised to see a shiny finish showing through. I ended up spending an hour on it alone and it looks great. I may have made a mistake by shining up the original duel tail pipe because it is now sticks out being the shiniest part on the entire car by far!
Some low quality pictures here but the difference before and after was huge.

[chp1982]

One more from the parking lot shake down run tonight.

[CHP8336]

Nice orig car!! Keep up the good work....:D

[28HopUp]

Nice orig car!! Keep up the good work....:D

Agreed! :)

[John10608]

You are doing a great job ! Keep up the good work !
It's a great feeling as it comes together !

Looks great ! Thanks for the pics !

[Wolfe1013]

Jon, great work, you just blasted past me and the restoration of # 0567!! Way to go. I really hope to see the car when I pass through. Maybe a test ride? I'll have my camera ready for a bunch of comparison photos.

Greg

[chp1982]

Thanks everyone!

Absolutely Greg. Looking forward to meeting you in person.

[MOstang]

Great job. :thumbsup:

[chp1982]

I have been enjoying the hunt for original interior parts for my car and recently came across one that I was wondering if I would ever find in good shape: An original French Vanilla dash pad! It looks amazing and is presently awaiting install in 0327...rather than the Canyon Red dye job it was due to get.

Glad you got to come by Greg. It was great meeting you and talking '82's with you.

[mac88chp]

Fantastic score! The trill of the hunt is half the fun. :2thumbs:

[chp1982]

Installed!

[chp1982]

One more:

[Wolfe1013]

Jon, you are one lucky devil. It was great to finally meet you and get a ride in the '82. Thanks!!

What a surprise to behold when he showed me that dash pad that had just arrived. :)

My car may look good from a distance, but yours has just about a complete interior. Keep up the great work. I hope to get back on mine some next weekend.

[chp1982]

I sat in my car the other day just staring....through my new Carlite windshield! Thanks to smunzen, I was able to get a great deal on the glass. What a difference after getting rid of the old cracked windshield.

[chp1982]

0327 has been treated to a few other goodies in the past few months:
-New driver seat to replace the previous replacement which replaced 2 other replacements
-Finally found original inner and outer seat belt sleaves
-Original gas cap
-Very nice set of replacement door panels, driver seat belt and original carpet (yet to be installed)
-Correct blue tire jack and hardware
-First aid kit
-Complete owners manual w/bag

I couldn't be happier with how far the interior has come. My goal has always been to hunt down the nicest original pieces I could find. I will have to get NOS materials for the headliner and package tray but things are looking good in there!

The to do list continues to get smaller.

[kapracing]

Looking great !!! :-)

[Wolfe1013]

Congrats, Jon. I know that feels great. She's looking great too.

[28HopUp]

The interior really looks nice! :thumbsup:

[ChrisL]

Love those french vanilla interiors

[nighthawk756]

Lookin' very good!! Congrats!! ;)

[John10608]

Nice job !!!

[John Connor]

Sweet!!! Every time I look at one of the early Foxes it makes me miss my 79 coupe.


John

[chp1982]

A small update but, nonetheless, one that I am pleased with; 0327 came with a few hand painted, gloss black trim pieces and they'll all finally be off the car. The cowl grill and side mirrors were replaced a while ago with correct '82 original finish pieces and finally I was able to acquire the correct original finish sail panels.
I was also able to score a set of the ever-so-elusive c-pillar trim pieces and some NOS marker and parking lights.
Now for the cooling system, carpet, headliner, package tray, the list goes on...

[mac88chp]

Keep plugging away...all those bits certainly add up! :thumbsup:

[kapracing]

Progress is always good :-)

[chp1982]

It was a beautiful day to get the car out. I've installed a few new parts recently: Outer belt moldings, door to body weather strip, strikers, NOS driver door panel and near perfect passenger door panel and I replaced the badly peeling bumper to fender moldings front and rear on both sides.

[chp1982]

Pic 2

[chp1982]

Pic 3

[kapracing]

Jon,
Looks really good! :2thumbs: ( even if though I had to stand on my head to see them !!! LOL)

[chp1982]

When I view the post, the pictures are right side up. Maybe I am upside down?!?

[MOstang]

It looks good...yeah upside down for me too, but easy to turn the phone (the laptop, not so much). :D

[John Connor]

looking great

[chp1982]

Very strange. I took them on my iphone and they were upside down when I emailed them to myself. I used paint to make them ride side up and saved as. When I view them on the site, they are right side up. I wonder why I see them this way but you all cannot. Ideas? Sorry for the strained necks!

[28HopUp]

Thanks for the photos (which are oriented properly for me on my phone and home PC). Your car gives me a glimpse as to how my SMPV will kinda look when painted...

[kapracing]

That is wierd .. Upside down for some not for others ... Hmmm?

[kapracing]

From my iPhone ...

[chp1982]

Weird. Upside down when I viewed the site from my phone too. Apple doesn't like me messing with it's photos I guess. Seems like it is fine when viewed from a PC or android device but Apple no likey.

[kapracing]

Weird. Upside down when I viewed the site from my phone too. Apple doesn't like me messing with it's photos I guess. Seems like it is fine when viewed from a PC or android device but Apple no likey.

Lol!!!
Looks awesome though!!!

[John10608]

Really NICE ! Great job !

[chp1982]

Thanks, guys. I went to take the car for a drive the next day and it didn't start. A starter, positive battery cable and cable to the starter later, she fired up immediately. Also, the issue I have had since day one of the car hardly wanting to start after being driven then shut off, is cured.
It was a good day.

[John10608]

My 92 did the same thing, ground issue. I put on all new battery cables, found a good ground with the new cable and BINGO.... issue solved.

[chp1982]

A little over one year has passed since that 'good day' when I replaced the starter. Shortly after, two more starters bit the dust. I ended up having the car towed to a friend who had done work on my '92. A new job, a move, various unforeseen circumstances with my friend and chasing down a vibration that popped up kept the car there for...8 months.

Now the good news. While 0327 was there, I took advantage of the opportunity and threw all the parts I could at it, including: water pump, all new hoses, various vacuum hoses, had the original radiator gone through, master cylinder, brake booster, clutch, flywheel, starter, alternator, wiring repairs, rebuilt steering shaft, rear bearings, power steering hose, rebuilt the original carb, full tune-up, and all fluids replaced.

I picked up the car last weekend and drove it the 30+ miles home at 60-65mph with zero issues. Here it is back in October loaded up.

[chp1982]

Finally back home.

[MOstang]

Good progress!

[kapracing]

Looking good :2thumbs:

[28HopUp]

Keep up the good work! :thumbsup:

[Steve]

chp1982 and I worked out a deal and 0327 has come across the country back to California, about 55 miles from where it started out (at Motor Transport, West Sacramento).

It is much further along than my other 1982, #0204, so I think I'll focus on it. Since it's driveable, I'll work on getting it smog checked first so I can register it. I've heard these cars are hard to get past the smog check here, so if it doesn't have catalytic converters I may have to put some in or replace them if it has original ones.

One of the advantages of having another, more complete car is that it serves as an example of where things go or should go. I think it will help me solve's 0204's radiator issue, where to put the clutch cable bracket, and some other issues I have had with 0204, which is rough.

Then I will have another decision to make: whether to make it a fun, driveable car that has emergency equipment installed but painted a solid color or even black and white with no decals, or go full resto and have a car I can take to shows but not use otherwise.

It's really tempting to go full decal; just seeing people's faces when they look at the restored ones at shows and ask "Is that legal to have"? is fun and then they want hear all about the hobby, and of course, that's what it's all about.

So 0327 will get attention first, then later, perhaps 0204. Or 0204 might just go into mothballs for some future purpose.

[28HopUp]

Congrats on the new SSP. :)

[chp1982]

0327 couldn't be going to a better home. Thanks again, Steve. I'm glad it went to you.

[ImEvil1]

Congrats, Steve. Glad to see that one back in CA.

[Steve]

0327 couldn't be going to a better home. Thanks again, Steve. I'm glad it went to you.

Thank you for the extra parts and the smooth transaction. Worked out well, including shipping the veh. cross country.

I will continue the tradition of posting update pics her as they occur.

[MOstang]

Congratulations. :thumbsup:

[Steve]

Work is progressing on the restoration. I've started in the interior, with the idea of wiring, fixing interior issues that I can handle, then taking the car to a shop for headliner replacement.

Carburetor/Electric Choke: On cold start the engine would jump to a high idle (~2500 rpm) and take forever before it could be brought down. Only when it was thoroughly warmed up could I get it to come down. Those 2-barrel carbs have electric chokes so I checked the voltage supplied from the alternator, and it was ~1.7, ok. Then I checked the choke coil and it was bad. Replaced the choke coil, adjusted the choke, and works great now.

Package tray: Completely shot, so using the old one as a pattern, I fabricated a replacement. As soon as the 3M fabric spray glue comes in I'll get the fabric cover on and install it.

Speakers (dash): The original Ford 3.5", 3.2 Ohm speakers were shot. Perhaps I could have reconed them, but I couldn't find any small speaker reconing kits for sale, probably because it is far cheaper to just replace them. I thought about sending them to a shop for reconing, but it would have been very expensive and there are so many other places to put the money. I found a good set of 3.5" full-range speakers online, and they are almost exact drop-in replacements for the originals. They even have the same size and type of mounting flange and the holes for the screws match up. They are 4 Ohm; I have read that CHP ordered 3.2 Ohm custom to work with the CC1 output. The small impedance difference probably wouldn't matter, but I soldered a 1/2W 18 Ohm resistor across the terminals of each speaker to bring the impedance close to 3.2 Ohms anyway.

I was hoping to find some wiring harnesses left under the dash for connection to the CC1, but I didn't so I will have to make the harnesses up. So I need to sit down and make up a plan, get a fusebox, etc. It's tempting to get a fuse panel that uses the modern blade fuses, since I will hide the panel under the dash anyway, but I'll have to think about that.

Rear Deck Amber/Red lights: I had a set someone put together, but it was not wired and had only a single, flat bracket with two holes to fasten it down to the package tray. The original package tray had no such holes. When I removed the rear seat I found two holes had been drilled, 15" apart in the sheet metal about 2" under the package tray deck, right about where the light set would have been located. I think those are the originals, so I am going to modify the mounting bracket to use those holes. Rewiring already done for the light set and they work well.

One of these days I am going to do a bench setup of the CC1 Controller I have to see if it works.

Wig Wag Controller (Unitrol Model 131): I have one, but it's old and I don't know if it works. The circuit itself is pretty straightforward and I know you can get the relay and the flasher, but if someone has an NOS one for sale I'd be in the market for it.

[Wolfe1013]

Steve, can you post up the details on those speakers? I have the driver side but the passenger side is missing. I grabbed some out of a 1984 Mustang convertible at the junkyard but I know they won't be CHP-spec.

Good work.

[Steve]

The speakers I got were found on Amazon, they are "BOSS AUDIO CH3220 Chaos Exxtreme 3.5" 2-way 140-watt Full Range Speakers", here's the URL:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JLBHLG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

$15 for the pair and they are supposedly rated for 140W, so they should be fine. And they are full-range, not tweeters. That's about the cost of shipping the originals to a custom shop for reconing, and it would probably be hundreds of dollars each to have them reconed/rebuilt. Only for the extreme purist.

I have attached pics of the original Ford speakers. They had a circle of fabric glued over the speaker cone, probably to help protect from the sun.

I forgot to mention that I also unsoldered the wiring from the Ford speakers and soldered it to the new speakers. so they will connect to the existing speaker harness connectors.

Description of attached pics, in order:

Top view photo of original speaker with fabric circle attached. Wiring harness and connector already removed.
Top view of original speaker with fabric removed.
Back of original speaker. Hard to see p/n, but OEM Ford 3.2 Ohm.
Another view of back of original speaker.
View of replacement with wiring harness and impedance adjusting resistor soldered to terminals.
Top view of replacement speaker with wiring harness and connector in place.
View of driver's side speaker location through windshield.
View of replacement dropped in, awaiting mounting screws. The new speakers even came with new clips and mounting screws. Drop-in replacement.

[chp1982]

Great progress, Steve. Please get a picture of 0327 and 0204 when you can.

[Wolfe1013]

Thanks for that write up and information Steve. There's more and more of these cars turning up and the owners can use it. 👍🏻

[Steve]

Eric, previous owner of 0204, was kind enough to email a scan of a vintage wiring diagram from 1984. Using it as a guide not only for connections but also wire colors and sizes, I am putting together a set of harnesses. It doesn't seem difficult; but there are a couple of things on the drawing (attached below) that I don't know what to do with:

1. A Red wire going from the 1.5A fuse of the RC fuses to something labeled "M. Box". I haven't figured out what the M. Box is. "RC" probably means Radio Console or similar, because other fuses from that block supply power to the scanner and the Micor.

2. A yellow wire going from the 10A fuse on the B+ fuse block to the "Repeater". I think this would run all the way to the trunk to power a unit located in the trunk. I think that is the same repeater that is also connected to the small whip antenna mounted on the center rear portion of the roof. Back in the day I always thought that small antenna on the roof was for the Regency scanner. I wish I had paid more attention to details then, took photos, etc.

[Steve]

Shotgun Release Switches

The shotgun lock release switches. The diagram shows 3 methods of activating the shotgun rack release. My memory of this is cloudy because of all the many other patrol cars I have driven over the years but I think I remember two switches and a key. The switches were one under the dash (pushbutton) and possibly one on the CC1. Both active only when the ignition key is on. Then a small key on the ignition key ring that would open the shotgun lock. Wish I remembered better.

[Steve]

Great progress, Steve. Please get a picture of 0327 and 0204 when you can.

Here's a pic of 0327 (foreground) and 0204 (background) side by side in my shop. I keep the hoods open to discourage mice from setting up shop there. I also keep a baited trap on the floor inside each vehicle in case they get inside. I've taken one mouse out of each to date.

[chp1982]

Thanks, Steve! The fleet is looking great. Regarding rodents, I bought the following and have been very pleased.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00J1VJPUA/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1490491508&sr=8-10&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=rat+repeller

[mac88chp]

Shotgun Release Switches

The shotgun lock release switches. The diagram shows 3 methods of activating the shotgun rack release. My memory of this is cloudy because of all the many other patrol cars I have driven over the years but I think I remember two switches and a key. The switches were one under the dash (pushbutton) and possibly one on the CC1. Both active only when the ignition key is on. Then a small key on the ignition key ring that would open the shotgun lock. Wish I remembered better.Steve, my car has only two releases and no key on the lock. The first is a foot switch (generic horn button) up on the drivers footwell and the second is a momentary switch mounted under the dash below the right glovebox door hinge.

http://media.fotki.com/1_p,gqggrtrkbqwtqqxstkbkdwsrgwg,vi/ktrkktdtwxrbrdtgggsxrkdqsbtsq/4/438439/4281912/CHP5305010notes-vi.jpg

http://media.fotki.com/1_p,gkqgdfwsgwtwqfxstkbkdwsrgwg,vi/bsbfrdbrrxrqfqbsgwdxfbrrbrfbd/4/438439/1627859/shotgunswitch-vi.jpg

Here's a shot of the underdash switch in my car. I made up a reproduction bracket and used as close as i could come to the original style switch.

http://media.fotki.com/1_p,gkqgrsbrtdwrtrxstkbkdwsrgwg,vi/kqqwdgqwbxbrqggwgwsxbrwrrbfqw/4/438439/1627859/P1010481-vi.jpg

[Steve]

Thanks, Michael, that's very helpful. I think I was confusing the shotgun release buttons and the key with later Crown Vics I've driven that had a momentary rocker switch on the lights control boxes to release the shotgun. They also had a key to unlock it.

I'm going to check 0327 to see if anything is still left. But with your info, it shouldn't be too difficult to recreate them.

I see your CHP fuse block is shown. Is that the original location? I thought I saw something somewhere mentioning they were under the hood, but I don't see any good place to put them.

[mac88chp]

Thanks, Michael, that's very helpful. I think I was confusing the shotgun release buttons and the key with later Crown Vics I've driven that had a momentary rocker switch on the lights control boxes to release the shotgun. They also had a key to unlock it.

I'm going to check 0327 to see if anything is still left. But with your info, it shouldn't be too difficult to recreate them.

I see your CHP fuse block is shown. Is that the original location? I thought I saw something somewhere mentioning they were under the hood, but I don't see any good place to put them.The CHP fuse blocks were mounted under the dash near the steering column in the Mustangs.

http://media.fotki.com/1_p,gqkfdfsdqdsbbwxstkbkdwsrgwg,vi/brstgdrkkxbrwrrbfqwxbrwbqgtbb/4/438439/4026725/P1010413-vi.jpg

[Steve]

Today I spent a few hours revealing 0327's spotlight and antenna ball mounting holes. For the spotlights I used a cylindrical sanding tool with a Dremel and sanded the paint away carefully to show the Bondo spots. Once they were visible I used an Xacto knife to carve away the bondo (first photo). I wanted to be very careful not to enlarge the mounting screw holes.

Removing about a quarter inch of Bondo inside the trunk where the antenna mount is was much more work. I had to be careful because there was Bondo on both sides of the metal. I didn't want to knock any of the outside Bondo off or damage the metal shape and create more body work. Carefully chipping away as much Bondo on the inside as I could with a putty knife then grinding the rest away, I could see where the three bolt holes and the center hole were from the trunk side. I then drilled the bolt holes and the center hole, using the Dremel tool once again to remove the rest of the Bondo to the original-sized center hole. (second and third photos)

The ball mount fits perfectly. It was a good day for 0327. A little at a time, just keep moving forward...

[ImEvil1]

Nice!

[mac88chp]

Good work! Thank god my car was never "civilianized" and all holes were left intact and unmolested.

[chp1982]

Looks great!

[NoDrama43]

be sure to spray a little etching primer on the holes, inside and out, to prevent any surface rusting etc.

[Steve]

With the great help of Jim (NoDrama43) I now have an NOS Unitrol M131 Wig-Wag Flasher unit for 0327. I had one from 0204 but it was original and had seen better days. And I did not have any instructions on how to connect it. I had even called Federal Signal Corp. (Federal acquired Unitrol's parent, Dunnbar-Nunn, some time ago) technical support for information, but they were unable to help.

Along with the NOS unit came installation instructions with a wiring diagram. I spent a couple of hours today figuring out how this unit wired into 0327's headlight circuit. I found where the wiring harness had been opened up near the master brake cylinder, and where it had been opened right below where the wig wag flasher had been installed on the left side of the engine bay just in front of the shock tower. It was obvious Motor Transport had cut the wires and spliced in the flasher in those two places, reconnecting the cut wires upon decommissioning.

It didn't take long to figure out which splice was for which high beam side; the RH was near the firewall. the one for the LH was near the wig wag flasher. One more wire, +12V from the WW terminal on the back of the CC1 completes the circuit.

I'll post all photos and more details when I have it installed, wired and working, but for now, and for future restorers, I am posting the installation instruction page in jpeg and pdf formats.

The wire I ordered came in so next step is to build some harnesses.

[Steve]

Today I completed installation of the Wig Wag Flasher. Attached to this post are an enlargement of the Unitrol connection diagram and a photo of the flasher installed in 0327.

On the '82 Mustang, the low beam headlights have two filaments. One filament is for low beam only, the other filament is powered up when the high beams are on. As shown in the stock wiring diagram, when the low beams are on, the headlight switch connects power to the low beam filaments but cuts off the power to them and switches power to the high-beam element in the low beams plus to the high-beam filaments when the high beam switch on the steering column is clicked on.

Once I located the two places CHP Motor Transport had spliced in to the wiring harness, the next task was to figure out which side went to the headlights and which side came from the headlight switch. Cut the splices, turn on the headlight switch, then check voltage at the wires. The side with +12V is coming from the switch in both cases.

I used #4 self-tapping sheet metal screws to attach the flasher to the sidewall, using the original holes. Self-tappers ensured a good ground connection for the case of the Flasher.

The +12V input wire (blue in the photo, as in the CHP wiring diagram) would be connected to the WW terminal on the back of the Federal CC1 controller. I don't have the CC1 installed yet so I just touched it to a voltage source to test. The wig wags worked perfectly!

Another good day for 0327.

[mac88chp]

Nice write up, good work! One more task down.

[Wolfe1013]

Great write up and detail, Steve. I for one really appreciate it. I had a photo of the instructions but never a scan or the added detail and commentary you just documented. Many thanks. Keep up the great work.

It's so cool to see someone who actually drove an 82 CHP Mustang share in the passion and restoration of now not one, but two of them.

Carry on. 👍🏻

[Steve]

Thanks, Mac and Wolfe, for the feedback. I had some extra time this evening so I put the details of what to cut and how to connect the Unitrol WW Flasher into the stock Mustang headlight wiring diagram. This should complete documentation of the Wig Wag restoration.

Next up: CC1 and CHP Fuse Block wiring harnesses. I'm just waiting for the fuse blocks I ordered to arrive then I'll custom mount them.

[Steve]

I almost forgot to post photos of the two locations where CHP Motor Transport cut the headlight wires to splice in the Wig Wag flasher, then reconnected the wires after decommissioning.

The first photo is of the harness by the ECM module, just below where the WW flasher mounted. You can clearly see the Light Green/Black stripe headlight wire indicated in the stock Mustang headlight wiring diagrams. MT reconnected the wires with the light Blue wire.

The second photo is of the splice location in the harness along the firewall, just behind the master brake cylinder. MT used the same blue wire to reconnect the Light Green/Black stripe wires. The blue wire goes up into the harness. A messy reconnect; used 2 wire colors (blue and red) in series.

Both of these splices had been tucked in to the harnesses after reconnect, but were easy to find. That blue wire MT used really stood out! I'm happy they made the restoration job easier.

[Steve]

It’s been raining and storming here for the last week, and I had some extra time, so it seemed like a good time to build the fuse block for 0327. I didn’t have much to go on in trying to figure out how CHP built their custom fuse block for the 1982 Mustang, so I looked at what others have done for various years, the 1984 wiring diagram I posted earlier in this thread, and started a design.
The first thing I looked at was where I might put it. Under the dash, driver’s side, above the clutch pedal, there is a lot of room. Then, what materials were available. Any number of fuse blocks are available online, from 4 circuits to 12 or more, some very simple, others more complicated and expensive. The main problem is that, as shown in the 1984 wiring diagram, there are 10 circuits, fed by 3 sources. All of the fuse blocks I could find had provision for only one input connection. So I settled on the 4-circuit block shown in the first photo, Fuse Block Purchased, below. You can get them online from Amazon or eBay, or elsewhere. They are very inexpensive. I ordered 3; that would enable each one to be powered from the 3 sources (Mustang stock fuse block, CC1 B+, and CC1 RC) independently. I needed 10 fuses; this combination gives 12 but on two of the blocks I could just leave one circuit unused.
I had a piece of insulating board material in my electronics parts bin; it is about ¼” thick, rigid, and is ideal for mounting the fuse blocks. I laid them as shown out in the next photo, Fuse Blocks Mounted, leaving sufficient space in between to be able to run connecting wires in with spade lugs without bending the wires too close to the lugs and putting stress on the connections. I like ring and spade lugs but you have to be careful; even with the right-sized lugs, crimped with the right tool, the wire can pull out or loosen if strained.
After mounting the fuse blocks, the next step was to locate where the input power leads would come in and attach. I used a piece of solid bare #14 wire (from household “Romex” type cable to connect all the terminals on one side of each fuse block, creating a bus. The next photo, Input Wire In Place, shows all 3 with the solid wire soldered to each fuse block terminal. You have to be careful when soldering to the fuse block terminals; they were intended for spade lugs and if you overheat those terminals it can melt the plastic block. The free end of each copper wire goes to a ring connector screwed down to the board. When connected in the system the incoming power line ring connectors will go to those terminals.
The other side of the fuses are where the powered devices will connect, using spade lugs. In order to protect all the wiring from possible contact, to give a finished appearance, and enable a means to label the fuses, I needed a second board to go on top. I took a piece of prototyping board, available at any electronics supply house, and carefully marked then cutout sections using a Dremel tool so it would fit over the 3 fuse blocks. This board type is very convenient because the pattern of the pre-drilled holes makes it easy to mark and cut and line things up. It is also very easy to cut with the Dremel. The next photo, Top Cover, shows this board in place. The following photo, Side View With Both Boards, shows it in place with standoff hardware mounted in between so the top board can be fastened down.
With the basic assembly done, the next step was to figure out how to mount this assembly. Many measure, fit, mark, trim, etc. trips under 0327’s dash later, I had it figured out. By the way, I did what my mechanic friend advised if doing a lot of work under the dash: I took the driver’s seat out. This allows you to lay on your back and work much more comfortably. I even folded up a large beach towel as a pad to lay on, and it worked well. I also fabricated an aluminum mounting bracket that picks up a hole in an existing Mustang bracket used to mount a relay or a flasher, then did final trimming and fitting. Fabricating the bracket enabled a really secure mounting that gets this fuse block well up under the dash, out of view but easily accessible, while not interfering with clutch operation.
The last photo, Finished, shows the completed assembly, with mounting bracket installed. Input sources and powered circuits are labeled. I printed the labels on paper, cut them out, and glued them. I need to pick up some 2A fuses to complete populating the fuses. The unused (unlabeled) fuse positions are handy for holding spares. Final size for the assembly is 10 ¼” long, 3 ½” wide, and 1 5/8” thick. Since I had most of the materials in my shop already total cost was less than $20.
When I finish the wiring harnesses, and connect the fuse block, I will post some pics of it installed and wired.

[Wolfe1013]

Amazing work, Steve! Do you double as an electrical engineer in your second life after the CHP? 👍🏻

[28HopUp]

Great job and excellent write-up. Thanks​ for sharing. :)

[Steve]

Amazing work, Steve! Do you double as an electrical engineer in your second life after the CHP? 👍🏻

Yes, my main occupation is Electrical Engineer. I left CHP to go back to College and earn a BSEE degree. But I still work in LE part time, both for a Sheriff's Office and for a local city PD. 37 years total now.

It's supposed to be rainy again the next few days, which means inside work. Next up will be completing the wiring harnesses and installing the Federal TS100 outside speaker.

[mac88chp]

Very nice work. Here is a shot of a CHP fuse block I owned at one time. John S. (John10608) has it now.

http://media.fotki.com/1_p,gqkfdfsdqdsbbwxstkbkdwsrgwg,vi/brstgdrkkxbrwrrbfqwxbrwbqgtbb/4/438439/4026725/P1010413-vi.jpg

[Steve]

I did see that one and it helped inspire my version.

[chp1982]

Invaluable information, Steve. Maybe this can be integrated into the CHP Restoration document.

[Steve]

It was cloudy and cold again today, a perfect day for inside work. I had recently received the 100W outside speaker purchased on eBay, so I thought this would be a good day to install it.
The TS100 is a little larger than I expected, and is heavy, no doubt due to having a large permanent magnet in the coil area. The first thing to do was look at 0327 to see where it would go and what I could take advantage of from the past.
On 0327, the original had been installed on the driver’s side. That was obvious because there was a rectangular cutout in the lower bumper near the LF corner, and I could see where CHP had cut part of the plastic splash protection out on the inside of the LF fender to enable access to the area inside. I took the speaker assembly and tried fitting it into that area. I was hoping to see an indicator of what type of mounting bracket CHP had used and where it was, but there was only one obvious hole drilled in the underside of the frame that might have been used. It was inconclusive. So I knew I would have to fabricate something.
The speaker came with a mounting bracket that I couldn’t use as is, but it did pick up two of the mounting holes of the coil housing. So I modified the bracket, then fabricated an L bracket that would mount to the underside of the frame and attach to the modified speaker bracket. I used 1/8” stainless steel sheet to make the L bracket; it had to be strong and SS would prevent rust. It was some work and there were several hours of trial fit, marking, and modifying to get it right. I wanted it securely mounted, tucked in as much as possible, but not touching or too close to the radiator or anything that could damage it from contact and vibration. The most difficult part was the plastic air intake snorkel tube the Mustang uses (on each side). It takes up a lot of room in there and one edge of it pressed against the speaker horn and prevented it from going far enough into the well to enable square and a well-located mounting for the assembly.
I don’t know what CHP did; I wonder if they had a TS100 with a slightly smaller horn? I cut three slits in the open part of the snorkel tube to enable it to flex where the horn pushed against it to relieve the stress. Then I drilled three pilot holes in the underside of the frame, and mounted the L bracket with heavy-duty self-drilling screws. I had already run the wires into the area, and I wanted to keep the connectors the speaker came with, so I spliced the wiring by soldering them then using shrink tubing to protect the splices. I also used plastic flex tubing to protect the wires all the way from where they came through the firewall; I really like the look of that tubing. You can use regular speaker wire for this, 16 or 18 gauge is fine.
There was no way I could see to mount the unit so the speaker horn is oriented the same way as the cutout in the front bumper, or get any closer to it without cutting out a large piece of the air intake snorkel. So the speaker horn is oriented 90 degrees different than the cutout, but everything is lined up, brackets are straight, so I’m good with it. As soon as I get the CC1 and MPA2 installed I will be able to test.

[ImEvil1]

Great write-ups, Steve.

Here is a picture of the mounts that CHP fabbed up for the siren speaker. It's in the CHP resto doc also. I know it's a newer car than yours, but I'm pretty sure my '82 still had it there also.

http://www.specialservicemustang.net/images/CHPspeaker.jpg

[Steve]

I looked at that photo carefully before starting this and the '82 seems somewhat different in that area. A bracket going between the frame and the lower edge of the fender would have dropped the speaker down substantially lower than the underside of the body parts, and I didn't want to do that. The speaker in the photo looks, scale-wise, smaller than the one I have, and would also have had to be substantially smaller to look anything like the mounting in that photo.

As soon as I get the MPA2 cable done, I can wire everything up and test it.

[ImEvil1]

That cable went out yesterday. Hope it (and the connectors) help out.

I tried to link to my Photobucket earlier, but their site was down. Here is the best picture I could find of my old '82. You can see the bracket there. It's definitely different than the newer version in the resto doc.

http://s299.photobucket.com/user/imevil1/media/1982%20CHP%200559/2013-03-09_13-40-31_815.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0

[Steve]

Thanks, Mike I'll be ready for that cable. The photos are a very useful reference source.

[Steve]

I installed the fuse block, CC1 and MPA2, wired everything else up. Today I powered up the CC1 for the first time.

What is working: Spotlights, rear deck lights, shotgun rack (release and map light).

What is not working: Siren, PA output. When I set the CC1 switch to Siren (with ignition on) I get a loud click from the outside speaker, indicating that it at least is getting some output from the MPA2. Same with the PA, with a mic plugged into the CC1, flipping the PA switch on the CC1 to the on position results in the same click from the speaker, but no sound output.

Could be the mic for the PA is no good. I wonder whether the horn ring circuit for the CC1 has to be connected for the siren to work at all. I have not wanted to set up the horn-controlled (Manual) siren; I don't think it would be useful.

Tonight I will have to get into the schematics of the CC1 and MPA2 to understand what to troubleshoot.

[chp1982]

It's alive! Mostly. I can't wait to see it all functioning, Steve. 0327 is in good hands.

[ImEvil1]

Steve,

When I tested the big batch of CC1s/MPA2s I found a few years back, I didn't use the horn ring circuit.

Sounds like it could be a bad amp or bad speaker to me.

[Steve]

Yes, it is alive. I forgot to mention the Wig Wags work also.

I'll try testing the speaker separately; then it will be back to basics on troubleshooting. Tracing power through the MPA2, looking at schematics, etc. I'm glad to know you didn't need the horn ring circuit connected, Mike, that helps to know that.

I really want the siren and PA working. At the Ripon Emergency Vehicle Show in October, they have a parade of the vehicle through town, Code 3. I want 0327 standing tall and looking good with all emergency eqpt working!

Yesterday I applied for registration at DMV as a historical vehicle (great suggestion from Mac88chp, I had forgotten about that). So now it's street legal to drive, I can get it tuned up and smog checked and start putting a few miles on her to shake off the rust.

[Steve]

The Federal MPA2 Siren/Amplifier is very easy to bench test. Today I did that; simply connected B+ and B- to 12 Volts DC, the speaker output to a speaker powerful enough to handle the 100W output, then connected +12V to pin 9 of the input connector. The siren Wail function worked as it should.

So I've got a bad CC1. I opened it up; it has a repair tag inside from 1986. I doubt it's seen any servicing since then.

The plastic output connector, J1, that connects to the MPA2, has seen better days. Both tabs on the sides that hold it in the housing have become brittle and broken off, so the connector floats. Plus all the pins are badly oxidized. I tried to clean them using an emery board, but it is very difficult to do a good job. It is possible the +12V the CC1 siren switch sends to pin 9 for Wail wasn't making it past the oxidized pin.

Fortunately, all of the connectors and pins are still made and are readily available online from DigiKey. So I am going to order a replacement connector, pins, then build a new one. It's tedious work but worth a shot. If after that it doesn't work then the electronics section of the CC1 that controls this signal, and the PA system, are likely bad. I'll then probably just look for a known good CC1 to buy.

Meanwhile, I can always just route +12V through the siren switch directly to pin 9 and make the siren work, which at least gets that part done.

When this is all complete I'll document the whole thing with all the connector and pin p/s, etc.

[mac88chp]

Good call on not hooking up the horn ring circuit. I had mine hooked up and it worked great for about 7 years but now I'm having an issue with my siren operation that I suspect lies in that circuit. For the parade duty these cars will only likely see nowadays you're right that it's not all that useful.

[ImEvil1]

The Federal MPA2 Siren/Amplifier is very easy to bench test. Today I did that; simply connected B+ and B- to 12 Volts DC, the speaker output to a speaker powerful enough to handle the 100W output, then connected +12V to pin 9 of the input connector. The siren Wail function worked as it should.

So I've got a bad CC1. I opened it up; it has a repair tag inside from 1986. I doubt it's seen any servicing since then.

The plastic output connector, J1, that connects to the MPA2, has seen better days. Both tabs on the sides that hold it in the housing have become brittle and broken off, so the connector floats. Plus all the pins are badly oxidized. I tried to clean them using an emery board, but it is very difficult to do a good job. It is possible the +12V the CC1 siren switch sends to pin 9 for Wail wasn't making it past the oxidized pin.

Fortunately, all of the connectors and pins are still made and are readily available online from DigiKey. So I am going to order a replacement connector, pins, then build a new one. It's tedious work but worth a shot. If after that it doesn't work then the electronics section of the CC1 that controls this signal, and the PA system, are likely bad. I'll then probably just look for a known good CC1 to buy.

Meanwhile, I can always just route +12V through the siren switch directly to pin 9 and make the siren work, which at least gets that part done.

When this is all complete I'll document the whole thing with all the connector and pin p/s, etc.

Nice work. Those CC1s are like tanks...hopefully it's just the bad contact.

[Steve]

It was a nice sunny day today so while I wait for parts to come in to repair the CC1 I thought I should work on getting 0327 ready for its visit to the smog checking shop next week. I put a bottle of Techron fuel system cleaner in the fuel tank, took out all my tools, put the driver's seat back in, and went for a drive. After warming up it felt really good. Lots of power, as I remember, and I appreciate all the work chp1982 did on the suspension. It felt solid.

Then I parked it and took some photos. You can see in the photos I still have the dash pad and bezels out; when the CC1 is working I'll reinstall everything.

It was a good feeling behind the wheel of an 82 SSP again. Brought back many memories.

[chp1982]

Looking great!

[28HopUp]

Very cool! Good luck getting it smogged.

[mac88chp]

Your car is certainly coming along and looking good Steve. Hope all goes smoothly at the smog station.

Yesterday was indeed a great day for getting these old warhorses out. I drove mine across the Golden Gate Bridge and on down to Half Moon Bay to be part of a vintage police car display at the Pacific Coast Dream Machines Show.

[Wolfe1013]

Very cool! Good luck getting it smogged.

The year I got mine and went to get my registration and plates was the one year the city of Memphis decided to smog test all vehicles, including those going for antique tags. It's a one time purchase but your limited on usage. Weekends are free but don't get caught driving through the week unless getting the car serviced or going to some event.

A proper tune up and a bottle of "Guaranteed to Pass" does work and got my 82 cleaned up and running well enough to pass the inspection. You can find it at your local auto parts store.

Greg

[Steve]

I've got to run the whole tank of gas through first so I am driving it as much as I can. I have heard it is hard to get these 82's through California smog check standards; I have no idea why. A new catalytic converter can make up for a lot, though, and if she needs it she'll get one. I think a tune up is probably in order too.

Mac88chp, that sounds like fun. I was thinking of going to the Dream Machine show, but next weekend the wife and I will go to Reno, NV for a few days of R&R. Maybe I'll see you at the Ripon EV show if you attend.

I finished making the CC1 to MPA2 cable today; as soon as the parts to rebuild the CC1 plastic J1 connector come in I'll be ready to test everything again.

As I have been driving 0327 around, configured as in the last pics, hardly anyone seems to notice. Only at the gas station the other night did a kid (~20-22) ask about it; he was a Mustang fan and recognized what it was.

[NoDrama43]

all this 1982 CHP stuff has got me itching to drive one.....

[Steve]

Jim you're welcome to do so anytime! Come out to N. California and help me put some miles on 0327 so I can get through this tank of gas!

[mac88chp]

Mac88chp, that sounds like fun. I was thinking of going to the Dream Machine show, but next weekend the wife and I will go to Reno, NV for a few days of R&R. Maybe I'll see you at the Ripon EV show if you attend.
Steve, bring your car to show at Ripon this year completed or not. We'll be there with #3035 and will probably also be bringing along our other in-progress project as we did last year:

http://media.fotki.com/1_p,rtfwsqtgrdfskdrxstkbkdwsrgwg,vi/ssfqsqssrxbrstgdrkkxgqgdbqbtk/4/438439/1682630/IMG_3117vi1-vi.jpg
Ripon EV Show - 2016

[Steve]

I will surely bring it to Ripon this year, in whatever state it is in at the time. I've already talked with my high-school-age son and he wants to come too, to see all the cars.

I've been running 0327 as a daily driver all week, to put miles on it. To the store, to the bank, to the local Stop-and-Rob at 2 am for a twelvepack (just kidding about the last part). So it looks now like late next week it will go into the shop for tune-up and smog check.

Today I put a new headlight switch in because the old one was intermittent. The key to it is pulling out the lights control knob and metal shaft; otherwise you cannot get the old switch out. I putzed around with it for an hour before I looked at the new switch and figured out the small spring-loaded pushbutton on the bottom is there for a reason; it's the locking pin release for the shaft.

[chp1982]

I never got around to installing that nos switch. Looks like maybe I did myself a favor!

[Steve]

I never got around to installing that nos switch. Looks like maybe I did myself a favor!

I was thinking about what you told me, that it can be a PITA. You can't see far enough under the dash, from any position, to see that shaft locking pin release button. So unless you know it's there, you'll never get that old switch out (without destroying the lower dash trim, that is, lol).

[Steve]

Today 0327 got the new dash speakers installed and the instrument cluster removed, renewed, and replaced.

The plan for the dash speakers is to connect them to the output of the Regency Scanner (working), which then will simulate radio traffic (I have no plans to try to get the two-way radio working). I also want to splice that output to the radio input of the CC1, fingers crossed, so it can go to the outside speaker. But at a minimum there will be simulated radio traffic inside the car.

I took the instrument cluster out, then on my workbench took it apart, cleaned everything, polished the input connector contacts and the panel bulb contacts. I also removed 35 years of dust from it and the dash area where it mounts. Two bulbs were replaced.

There is a fair amount of rust in some of these areas. When 0327 was in Washington State it apparently sat outside for extended periods and water got inside and stayed there. So many of those steel interior parts, under the dash, fasteners, support brackets, etc. were unprotected steel. chp1982 did a great job cleaning up mold and the carpet. As I take things apart and get deeper in I find rust. Everything is functional, and a lot of it you don't see when every thing is together, but I figure while it is apart it can be mitigated.

I use a product called "CorrosionX". I use it on nuts and bolts that are rusted before I put them back together, or as a wipe down treatment of just about any metal surface that has small rust pits or just needs a polishing. I also put some on a Q-tip and dab it on rusted screw heads, washers, clips, just about anything that has been attacked by rust. Let it sit for a few minutes and wipe it off. It gives a nice patina, removes the rust color, and leaves a protective film. Got it on Amazon. Does a great job imo. Even for things I am not actually taking it apart, I use it just to make it look better.

I have two pics below showing dash screws and clips before and after using this material. The light isn't very good as it is getting dark but you can see some difference.

[mac88chp]

Wow, you are taking your restoration very seriously with all the right details Steve and I admire that greatly. Keep the updates coming! :thumbsup:

Thank goodness #3035 spent it's entire life in the dry CA Central Valley before I acquired it. While most of the interior was burned to a crisp, at least I never had to deal with a bit of interior (or exterior for that matter) rust. I never hooked up my dash speakers to the Regency scanner but sometimes wished that I had over the years as the output would have been louder than just that coming from the scanner itself. It really only mattered when I was on the road where I like to keep tabs on the car-to-car chatter concerning my presence out there. ;)

The output from the scanner itself is sufficient at shows and events to simulate radio traffic and I never hooked up my Micor broadcast radio as well. I always program my scanner for all the areas I plan to travel through when I'm in transit and make sure I have the local frequencies on when I'm showing. But I have to tell you I don't hear near the radio traffic these days as it seems more and more communications have moved over to the CAD system.

[Steve]

Today I installed the CC1 with the rebuilt output connector. Everything now works, from all of the lights to the PA system, outside speaker, and siren. After 30+ years...

I also connected the Regency M100 scanner output to the dash speakers and the CC1's "Radio" input.

I had previously taken the dash speakers (4 Ohm) and added a resistor across the terminals to drop their impedance to 4 Ohms, which is what the Micor system wants. But since I will not be using the Micor, and instead using scanner output to simulate radio traffic, I needed an 8 ohm impedance because this is what the Regency output needs for a load. By connecting the dash speakers in series, it gives 8 Ohms. Perfect.

It was awesome to hear the scanner output both from the dash speakers, and on the outside speaker.

Next week 0327 goes in for tune-up, smog check, and some minor mechanicals.

[Steve]

Today I installed the CC1 with the rebuilt output connector. Everything now works, from all of the lights to the PA system, outside speaker, and siren. After 30+ years...

I also connected the Regency M100 scanner output to the dash speakers and the CC1's "Radio" input.

I had previously taken the dash speakers (4 Ohm) and added a resistor across the terminals to drop their impedance to 4 Ohms, which is what the Micor system wants. But since I will not be using the Micor, and instead using scanner output to simulate radio traffic, I needed an 8 ohm impedance because this is what the Regency output needs for a load. By connecting the dash speakers in series, it gives 8 Ohms. Perfect.

It was awesome to hear the scanner output both from the dash speakers, and on the outside speaker.

Next week 0327 goes in for tune-up, smog check, and some minor mechanicals.

I should proofread a little better before I hit the Submit Reply button...I meant I had added the resistor across the 4 Ohm dash speakers to drop their impedance to ~3.2 Ohms. By removing the resistors they reverted to 4 Ohms.

[chp1982]

Great job, Steve. If you can post a link to a video at some point, I'd love to see how exactly it all works.

[Steve]

Today at 0900 0327 went into the shop for a thorough tune-up, smog check, and new rear wheel bearings. Which isn't news as I have been talking about it for the last few weeks. But it does have a story associated, that I think might be of amusement to SSP enthusiasts.

The car was checked in by one of the founders, who is close to retirement, and is somewhat a curmudgeon. All the personality of a fence post. Perhaps all the years of doing mundane, monotonous work on grocery-getters has dulled his senses and although he doesn't do the work any more, you'd think something out of the ordinary would get his attention, generate a spark of enthusiasm. Nope. He goes out to get the mileage and VIN for the shop order. 0327's interior is out and only the driver's seat is installed. I had told him at the start the veh. was in the process of being restored (so no comments about the interior or any other part are necessary).

He writes down the info, then says "You want to restore this thing?" "Yes", I replied. it's a former CHP patrol car. "So what?" he fires back, demonstrating complete lack of knowledge, understanding, and interest. 'There's an entire hobby devoted to restoring and collecting these cars" I informed him. " He shook his head, smiled slightly, then said "Well...congratulations" then shook his head some more. Too bad this guy doesn't own a tow yard full of SSPs and says to me "I just want them out of here".

Some people will never get it...and don't want to.

Meanwhile, I modified 0327's extender roof-mount antenna cable by removing the coax connector and replacing it with one compatible with the input jack to the Regency scanner.

The now-working CC1 and MPA2 and their new cable are waiting patiently to be installed once 0327 comes back from the shop.

[Steve]

0327 is in the shop sitting...waiting for a part...I registered it in California, as a historical vehicle, but even though it will be driven very seldom, California still requires that it pass the smog check. So the shop is going through everything and they find out that the Exhaust Manifold Heat Riser (pic below ATP 105012) has been modified, essentially removed, and it has to be replaced. That alone causes it to fail the smog check and there is no point continuing with anything else until that problem is solved. Should be no problem, right? Order one, a few days later it's in, install and move on.

Except that although many places online list the part, actually getting one is a challenge. They ordered one on eBay, two days later the seller refunded the money and said he didn't actually have the part. I've ordered one from a parts dealer online, but the best they can tell me is it ships from the manufacturer. No eta on when/if it might ship. So now it's on hold.

I can handle things like making wiring harnesses, troubleshooting the CC1 and MPA2, things that seem like real problems. But it is a simple little emissions-control part that brings the whole thing to a stopping point. A little vacuum-controlled valve that probably nobody ever knew or cared was in there. I looked at 0204 to see if it had one I could borrow. The same mod has been done to it so no go there. I am guessing perhaps over time this part, with it's butterfly valve in the center, gets sticky and stays closed and that causes problems so that's why they were modified by removing the butterfly valve and vacuum solenoid.

It's so annoying because I can't get 0327 to the differential or body shop (my friend's shop) that are 150 miles away until I get the registration completed.

[Steve]

I've searched the Internet, there are two eBay listings, but they are the same seller and there is NO stock; the 10 available shown is an error. I've been in contact and they said they have been trying to take them down but eBay software keeps reposting. I have checked with Autoplicity, Summit Racing, Wrench Monkey, all of them. I even checked with the last manufacturer, ATP Automotive: nada.

I'm betting this is one of those parts that didn't fare well in service. Like most exhaust system components, over time rusted, seized up, and was removed completely or (like the ones I have) someone modified them by removing the butterfly valve and vacuum pot. In California, it will fail the smog check on a visual inspection just for that.

This part was used on a lot of Ford and Mercury products 81-86. I may have to go to a junkyard, crawl under some hulk in a puddle of oil, transmission fluid, and general putrefaction, then wrestle with two rusted, baked on nuts to remove one that's probably seized up anyway or just worn out. Then I can take it back to my shop, polish it up, unstick the valve/shaft, then the smog checker will be happy because it's there. This is my last resort.

I haven't gone to a junkyard for many years, but then I haven't gotten this deep into auto work since I was a teenager. Oh well, perhaps I can spin it into something good: Virtually going back in time and reliving youth...

[NoDrama43]

Steve is that a CA item only?

I have several early 5.0 motors that are complete with manifolds. I can check them to see if I have one on any of those motors.

[ImEvil1]

I think I have a couple extras also.

[Steve]

Steve is that a CA item only?

I have several early 5.0 motors that are complete with manifolds. I can check them to see if I have one on any of those motors.

I don't know if it is CA only. It would be located at the end of the driver's side exhaust manifold, between the manifold and the exhaust pipe.

[Steve]

I think I have a couple extras also.

I sure am in the market for one if you have one to sell. I found out today the company I ordered online from has no stock either and won't because the manufacturer has discontinued. These things are scarcer than hen's teeth, or a genuinely honest politician in Washington D.C.

[ImEvil1]

If I have an extra, you can have it. I will try to get over there this weekend and take a look.

[ImEvil1]

Steve,

Made it over there yesterday to check. I have extra manifolds, but not extra valves. Sorry about that. I was sure I had a box with extras.

[chp1982]

A member on FEP came through with one for the cost of shipping. Hopefully shipping out today.

[ImEvil1]

Good deal!

[Steve]

Thanks, Mike, and everyone who responded. Through the efforts of chp1982 I was able to get one. A used one, but it works, and should do the job. I am going into the shop tomorrow morning at 8 am to bring it in. With what it took to find it I almost feel like bringing in a trumpet or bugle to announce to the shop (and the city) the arrival of the coveted Exhaust Gas Riser valve, which had stopped the project dead in the water.

I sincerely appreciate the advice, assistance, and help I have been fortunate to receive from members of this forum. The restoration of 0327 (and virtual reincarnation of 0255) would not be happening without it.

I had, through the internet, looked all over the country and the world to try to find a nos part. I had said that these things are about as hard to find as a genuinely honest politician in D.C. So my faith in politicians is restored!!!...just kidding...I wouldn't go quite that far...:D

[NoDrama43]

excellent Steve. Hopefully all will go well.

[Steve]

Got a call this afternoon from the shop. 0327 has now passed the California smog test. It wasn't easy; it took that heat riser part chp1982 found, changeout and correct routing of all vacuum hoses, tuneup, and replacing all 3 CAT converters.

I will pick it up tomorrow; have an appointment next week at the DMV to complete registration as a historical vehicle.

After that it will be a drive to Santa Clara, CA for a visit to the differential shop, then I will take it by my buddy's body shop to show him so he can schedule it for body and paint. That will be the most difficult part as his shop is busy and it may be there for a while.

With a little luck it will be ready for the Ripon Emergency Vehicle show in October, which is the premiere event in Northern California.

[28HopUp]

Congrats on getting it smogged! :)

[Steve]

Just drove 0327 home from the shop. Starts up right away; I love it when you just turn the key and an engine starts immediately, cold or hot. Idles nice and smooth at 950 rpm, and has all the power I remember. And it is way under the California emissions limits. That is a good rule of thumb indicator of an engine's overall health. For me that's good enough and I won't need to rebuild it.

[chp1982]

Great to hear, Steve!

[mac88chp]

Good news, way to hang in there!

[NoDrama43]

good news. Now does the car have to be smogged every year?

[Steve]

Yes, it will have to be retested but only every two years. Even though it is registered as a Historical vehicle, and is only supposed to be used for special occasions, it still is treated as any other streetable vehicle. It makes no sense, but that's the way it is in California. Things don't have to make sense here...

[Steve]

Today the registration was completed for 0327. The Historical Vehicle plates will come in the mail in a few weeks.

I drove 0327 to a differential shop today also. There was a rubbing or grinding sound coming from the rear axle, sounded a lot like it was coming from the driver's side, so it may be as simple as an axle bearing. I should have a diagnosis today or next Monday.

What I like about this shop is it's a small shop, run by the owner, who does all the work. As soon as he saw 0327 he knew what it was. He said he had a friend who had an 84 SSP, so he has some familiarity, and thinks it's a cool project (I liked hearing that a lot better than "You want to restore that thing? lol). Of course he knows all about the 7.5 inch differential and it's issues.

So I think 0327 is in good hands.

[Steve]

0327 came home from the Differential Shop today. It has been making a lot of noise, especially from the driver's side of the rear axle. Sure enough, the axle bearing on that side was shot. The positraction unit was also worn out, no surprise there with the history of these units.

I thought about where to rebuild the stock rear axle, or get an 8.8. In the end, for the sake of originality, I had them rebuild it. New axle bearings, new axle shafts, new Posi. Drives great now and nice and quiet.

If I was doing anything high-performance with the vehicle, or modifying anything else, I would have gone with an 8.8.

[mac88chp]

0327 came home from the Differential Shop today. It has been making a lot of noise, especially from the driver's side of the rear axle. Sure enough, the axle bearing on that side was shot. The positraction unit was also worn out, no surprise there with the history of these units.

I thought about where to rebuild the stock rear axle, or get an 8.8. In the end, for the sake of originality, I had them rebuild it. New axle bearings, new axle shafts, new Posi. Drives great now and nice and quiet.

If I was doing anything high-performance with the vehicle, or modifying anything else, I would have gone with an 8.8.
That same bearing went bad on my car too but the rest of the rear was good to go. Who knows how much of it is still original.

Good decision on keeping things on yours to original spec. Once you are finished with your restoration and have spent all the time, effort and money on it, true performance driving will be the LAST thing on your mind. Take it from someone who's been there for the last eleven years - you'll be concentrating WAY more on avoiding rock/debris hits plus all the lousy and crazy drivers around you and on hoping your decades old ride will get you home at the end of the day without a breakdown.

[NoDrama43]

+1 on keeping the original rear diff. Swapping in an 8.8 would have been a total fail....(to me anyway)

:)

[Steve]

While in the SF Bay Area this week, I visited my friend's body shop in Santa Clara, CA. 0327 is now on the calendar to go in for body and paint work in mid-August. I won't know until he sees it how long it will take, but he knows I want it to look good so it will probably take some time. But with some luck, and if I can make a pending connection with an interior shop in my area, 0327 just might be done by the end of this year.

[mac88chp]

How much work does your interior need?

I stripped all of mine out of the car prior to it going to paint jail. Sent the seats out to the trim shop to be rebuilt and recovered while it was there. I rebuilt and refinished the center console and shotgun rack, cleaned up the door cards, kick panels and rear quarter panel covers and sourced a new carpet and headliner while waiting for the car to return.

Once #3035 was back, I was able to dive right in to putting the completed interior back in the car. During this down time I also got all the trunk components ready to install. Car came back to me painted on July 3 and I was just ready to show the car for the Ripon show in early October. Would have gone a lot faster if I didn't have that inconvenient thing called work always getting in the way back then!

[Steve]

It needs a substantial amount of work, but with the help of chp1982 I have a complete set of restored seats, leaving carpet, headliner, door trim, package tray and misc items. I have the materials to make a new package tray (2nd try, I didn't like the way the first one I made came out), and I'll work on the other parts while 0327 is in the shop. I want the headliner professionally installed and I do want to install sound-absorbing material so that will take some time.

One of the difficult things I see with the interior is the status of all the plastic trim parts. Some have cracks, many have been discolored by sun exposure.

The only way I won't drive 0327 to Ripon in October will be if it's still in the body shop. But I will certainly be at Ripon.

[chp1982]

Moving right along! I'd recommend having your bodyman take a look at the interior plastics. He should be able to match the color spot on. The crack on the driver a-pillar should not be an issue. The rear quarters will take a little more work to match the texture where the sun chalked them up. It has been done though.
I have a-pillars and a few other bits if you need them. Carpet install is pretty easy.

[Steve]

In preparation for going into the body shop on August 8, I did one last check of emergency equipment before the spotlights, antenna mount, and the rest of the interior is removed. I made a short (20 second) video of this, with 0327 sporting the new "Historical Vehicle" license plates that make her street legal:

https://youtu.be/Xw7PuW-xd18

The Code 3 part is short; I didn't want to disturb the neighbors too much!

When 0327 goes in to the body shop, I will take ongoing photos to document the process. I will probably have some questions for the Forum, so please stay tuned!

[chp1982]

Too cool!

[NoDrama43]

very nice Steve.

[28HopUp]

Very cool! :cool:

[John10608]

Good job Steve !!
It will look sharp once painted and completed ! Looks good now !

Congrats !

[Steve]

After a 160 mile drive today, 0327 is now at the body shop in Santa Clara, CA. This is going to be a lot of work; all removable parts will come off including hood, trunk lid, fenders, doors. Painted separately then reinstalled. They want to strip off all the white paint that Earl Scheib put on 33 years ago. I need to get new side moldings for the front fenders and rear quarter panels. I told them it's gotta look good. I do plan to stop by from time to time and may even pitch in and do some work. I will get progress photos to post here.

[chp1982]

160 mile drive, wow! How was that? Looking forward to progress photos!

[Steve]

0327 performed well. Didn't overheat, lots of power. I noticed after about an hour that it seemed like running at highway speed and full temp it got some cobwebs out. That hesitation in accelerating I told you about went away. At 65 mph it was smooth, at 75 I started getting vibration in the drive train. Perhaps driveline needs balancing, wheels need balance? At 80 it was uncomfortable (the vibration) so I stayed at about 72-75 for most of the way. The route included some long and steep grades. 0327 went right along at 70 and never even slowed down; I didn't have to open the throttle on the hills to maintain speed. Other than balancing wheels and maybe the driveline I won't do anything about the vibration, because I won't be driving very often and don't need to exceed 70.

[mac88chp]

Glad to hear you made it fine and now the body shop fun begins! It is a GREAT idea for you to visit the shop OFTEN for two reasons:

First, it reminds the crew there to keep up progress on your car and it gives both you and them many opportunities to review and assess the details of the work being performed. This will help eliminate the possibility of what could be important decisions (large, medium and small) being made in your absence because nobody wanted to "bother" you or thought they could reach you. When it comes to getting an absolutely correct restoration, you will want to be "bothered" and the best way is to just present yourself as often as possible.

Second, photos of the car in disassembly, refinishing and reassembly is a VERY important part of the documentation for your car. Having these will ensure you have proof of what your car is and of what and how the restoration work was done. It will support the value of your car in the future. Take as many photos as possible and if you can't be there at important points ask the shop to take some photos for you.

You are at a disadvantage due to distance but try your best. I was lucky as I was able to get my body and paint done at a shop in the city where I was working at the time so I would randomly scoot over there during lunch breaks 2-3 times a week. I knew when they took their break so I would plan to arrive about in the middle of that time when the shop was empty and I had full access to shoot photos at will. After that, they would be coming back on to work and I could chat with them briefly and work out any details I noticed before they continued. I made sure they knew I was politely watching them and they took it well because I never became overbearing or excessively demanding. I was happy with the outcome and they told me they actually enjoyed working WITH me on a car we were both proud of at the end. Hopefully you can accomplish the same so keep posting progress pics and info!

[Steve]

Thanks, Michael for the suggestions. The shop owner is a friend (25 yrs) so I can stop by anytime. I am in the area often so that won't be any problem and I will take lots of photos along the way.

I also want to see how they do some of the work, in particular, applying the paint. I told them it's gotta look good, that's more important than cost or time.

[Steve]

I visited 0327 in the shop today. The front end and fenders have been removed (first pic below). Now I know why they like to take things apart there; removing all that skin metal enables inspection and cleaning. Removing the front end revealed two builder tags attached to the front top of the radiator support (last photo). They had the exact colors used.
Some old damage was found to the lower corner (passenger's side) of the radiator support; likely someone hit a high curb or something that was low enough not to damage the front end or bumper but high enough to catch the radiator support. It pushed the radiator support in a few inches, causing the plastic front end to not fit perfectly. The last two photos are of the hydraulic straightener tool in position after having straightened out the damage, which will then be cleaned, welded and painted.
Tomorrow I am going back to help vacuum, brush, and blow out the 35 years of dirt, leaves, and debris that have accumulated in all the nooks and crannies. Then wash and clean everything, after which it will be sandblasted where rusty then painted. Lots of work, but I think it will be worth it in the end. All of the removed hardware goes into a tumbler; when it comes out it looks like new. Details, details. But I think it is going to be worth it.

[Wolfe1013]

It will be well worth it, Steve. I'm so envious of the progress you're making. Great work and you get to join in on the fun, too!!

[chp1982]

Looking good!

[Steve]

Since I was still in town, I went back to the body shop yesterday and put in about 4 hours working on 0327. While the Maestro completed straightening, welding, grinding, and priming the repaired damage to the lower portion of the radiator mount (visible in first photo below, left lower corner), I removed most of all the body parts that can be removed: taillights, rear bumper cover, impact bar, sail panels, gas filler cover, wipers, cowl cover, cowl trim, and hood scoop. All that is left are the trunk lid, hood, and doors. All will be removed and stripped, straightened, primed and painted. It looks pretty unrecognizable with so much removed, at least from the front and back.
It's a small body shop, but they are really old school when it comes to attention to detail. All removed metal fasteners are tumbled and look new when done. Brackets, metal assemblies removed are sandblasted and treated, looking like new. I think 0327 will be ready for a museum when done.
0327 itself will be scrubbed clean, all rusted areas treated and primed, then painted and reassembled. Might even be ready to drive to the Ripon Emergency Vehicle show the first week of October.

[chp1982]

I still recognize her! Stay on the the shop and you may have the quickest completed paint job in history.

[MOstang]

Great progress! :thumbsup:

[mac88chp]

Coming along nicely! Restorations in progress are definitely welcomed at the Ripon show.

[Steve]

Good to see the Forum back online. I visited 0327 at the shop the other day. Coming along slow but sure. You never know how much rust there really is or how many parts need sandblasting, straightening, or rust removal/repair until you get it all apart.

From the way this is going I'm confident that when this is all back together it will arguably be better than original. The paint will look better, and the fit and finish will probably be better as well.

[Steve]

Slow going but steady. The doors are getting ready to come off. As each piece or panel is removed, it is cleaned, paint removed, any imperfections or rust dealt with, then primed and readied for paint. All items will be painted separately then reassembled. I have heard some don't like to do that, because separate batches of paint may not look the same, plus reassembly can be tricky.

This Artiste does it that way because he feels that the distance and angle of the paint spray can be held closer to a constant with parts off the car and carefully positioned. He also is comfortable mixing paint batches consistently.

Today when I went by he was taking the doors apart before removing them. Everything comes out; glass, control assembly, latches, locks, glass, all trim and channel. I'll have to find new window channel material. So much work. When I told him I was surprised he was going to that level of detail, he said "You want it to look good, don't you?" There's only one answer to that question...

All rusted portions of the trunk around the license plate have had new metal welded in, and are primed. Fenders and the hood have been straightened, all paint removed, then primed.

Attached are two pics; one of the passenger front fender waiting for paint, then one of the veh as it is now. Doesn't look like a Mustang right now.

[chp1982]

Looks great, Steve. Way to go saving that decklid. That's a lot of work but worth it to have the original sheet metal.

[mac88chp]

Good to see the progress. Gotta strip them all the way back to get the best results. Mine at about that stage:

https://media.fotki.com/2v9q7B9rx3RqKh.jpg

[Steve]

That's about what it looks like, Michael. I just hope this guy remembers how it all goes back together. I read a book recently by a guy who worked for the Harrah's Collection in Sparks, Nevada for about 20 years and he was saying at their shop they had a procedure on how they would photograph and document their restorations. Every assembly, every part as it was coming off would be photographed. It was almost like a forensic team procedure.
Now putting a Mustang back together might not be as challenging as reassembling a one-of-a-kind 1921 Gilbert Gobstopper 6 months after tearing it down, but I know I wouldn't be able to do it without the photos.
This guy has been doing it his way for 30 years. No pics. I just have to trust his memory is a lot better than mine...lol
I saw a '56 Chevy he recently completed and it looked really good.

[Steve]

Went by the shop on Friday January 5. I'm again amazed at the level of detail. The driver's door is off and is being rebuilt. Everything came out/off, including the glass. All moldings will be replaced (after I order new ones). He actually sandblasted clean the inside of the door besides removing all paint to the bare metal (see pic). The fit and finish will be awesome.

I do believe this vehicle will be better than new when done.

[chp1982]

Steve, I think I sent you pics of what original paint breaks look like on the black to white transitions on the doors, a-pillars, etc. Let me know if you need anything.

[Steve]

Went by the shop to see how 0327 is coming along. The last items are being prepared for paint then reassembly. Here is a picture of the trunk lid, stripped to the bare metal. All parts taken off. After fixing any issues, it will be primed then readied for paint.

My shop friend wants to strip the trunk area clean, replace the rubber mat in the area behind the rear seat, and paint the trunk too.

It should be at the point soon where the body can be painted. I've paid $3k so far to the shop but there's a lot left to do. I don't know what the total is going to be but whatever it is I think it will be worth it, considering the level of detail.

[chp1982]

That's great you were able to save the decklid. It was toast, or so I thought. That car somehow managed 100k miles in service, one civilian owner before I got it and another 100k miles. All with the original engine and body panels. I can't wait to see the reassembly pics!

[Wolfe1013]

Great work, Steve. I love the attention to detail you and the shop are giving this car. I’m really interested in how they will replace the black matting at the front of the trunk, behind the rear seat. I’ve never seen a reproduction that I recall.

[Steve]

Great work, Steve. I love the attention to detail you and the shop are giving this car. I’m really interested in how they will replace the black matting at the front of the trunk, behind the rear seat. I’ve never seen a reproduction that I recall.

Thanks, it's taking a long time, but I think it will be worth it in the long run. chp1982 says there is a company that makes those trunk insulation pads.

I'll almost be afraid to work on this vehicle when it's finished. Afraid I might scratch something. I will put all the emergency equipment, including the trunk gear, back when it is done. Carefully...

[ssp5.0]

Great job on the restoration, can't wait to see the end result, it will be worth the wait!
I've never seen an original sound deadener between the trunk and seat but, Late Model Restoration sells an item that says has a thicker jute padding on the interior and a black material on the trunk side. There is a video on their YouTube site. Hope this helps you out. Let everyone know if it is appropriate, looks original.
Bruce

[mac88chp]

I'll almost be afraid to work on this vehicle when it's finished. Afraid I might scratch something. I will put all the emergency equipment, including the trunk gear, back when it is done. Carefully...Fear not, it's the most enjoyable and rewarding time of the project. Just be patient and take your time with everything and you won't go too wrong. I did so and really only ruined one part the whole time. I broke one of the inside A pillar covers but luckily had a spare pristine used one. The only scary moment was drilling it for the spotlight shaft.

[Steve]

Great job on the restoration, can't wait to see the end result, it will be worth the wait!
I've never seen an original sound deadener between the trunk and seat but, Late Model Restoration sells an item that says has a thicker jute padding on the interior and a black material on the trunk side. There is a video on their YouTube site. Hope this helps you out. Let everyone know if it is appropriate, looks original.
Bruce

Thanks, I'll check it out.

[NoDrama43]

looking good Steve.

[Steve]

looking good Steve.

Thanks Jim. I'll keep the updates coming and I got the info on the trunk sound deadener mat so I'll order it.

[Steve]

The shop has been busy doing insurance work so not much has progressed since last visit, but this time I did some work myself. This was a great opportunity to remove the fuel tank and see what was inside. 4 bolts, disconnect the hoses and wiring and it was out. No problem. I've attached two photos of the tank, one as it came out, and the second with everything removed.

I was very surprised, the gas that we emptied out was clean and so was the inside of the tank. Almost no sediment, no varnish, no crud. Don't need to do anything to the inside.

There is some rust on the outside. Not bad, and certainly no danger of rusting through. But I'd like to clean the outside, remove the rust, and then do something to protect it for the future. I wonder if there was any sort of treatment done to the metal to keep it from rusting, and perhaps it wore out in just the few places? If I wire brush, steel wool, or sand that rust off, I'll likely have to protect the metal or it likely will rust again. Should i just sandblast the whole thing and apply a coating or paint? I hesitate to paint it because even though it is not visible in service that is not the way it was stock.

The other thing I did was take the ignition key (original Ford key) and the door and trunk lid locks. I'm going to see if a locksmith can modify the door and trunk locks to work with the ignition key, as was original.

Soon, I am told, the body (sans doors, trunk and hood, rear pillar glass and trim) will be painted black, then the white parts painted over that. Those pics will be much more interesting to post here.

[Steve]

I looked at some Youtube vids on fuel tank restoration. One guy had a tank that was in very good shape inside, but he still used a cleaner, an etcher, then poured some coating material inside.

In the case of one like 0327's, where it is very clean and I don't see any rust inside, I'm reluctant to use any kind of coating or other chemicals internally. I figure it ain't broke...

This guy sandblasted the exterior and then painted the outside black. I like the idea of a rust-resistant paint for protection, but it wasn't stock. I'm struggling with that part.

[ssp5.0]

Hi Steve
As for your gas tank, I would check with a radiator shop, some also repair fuel tanks regarding getting the rust off the outside....sparks vs gas fumes?
If I remember correctly, some fill the tank with water to dissipate the fumes before welding them, others I have heard use dry ice dropped in the tank to do this. Also remember a brass drift when reinstalling the lock rings. Eastwood Company has a product called Tank Tone for coating the outside. It might be a bit shinier than OEM but I assume you will reuse the black plastic tank shield.

In the matter of door locks, I suggest you contact a locksmith shop that has been in business for a long time and ask for a brand of automotive locks called ASP. They made the door & trunk cylinders with the same keyway as the ignition. I tried a distributor in Wash. state a few years back but they are no longer made. Have heard the offshore ones wear out quickly.
Bruce

[ImEvil1]

Pretty sure '82-'83 didn't have the tank shields.

[Steve]

Thanks for the suggestions Bruce. The tank protection product sounds good and I'll call around to see if I can get a lock shop that is accustomed to auto locks.

I might just use some steel wool or fine sandpaper to hand sand the rust off. It isn't deep and should come right off. Then apply that protective material on the outside.

[Steve]

Went to a lock shop today and they said no problem modifying the door and trunk locks to work with the ignition key. Should be ready tomorrow.

I think I'll experiment with removing the rust spots on the outside of the tank this weekend. I'll try light hand sanding, then pressure-wash the whole thing with a detergent/degreaser solution.

[chp1982]

Great news, Steve!

[Steve]

No problem getting the door and trunk locks modified. I found a lock shop that easily modified them to work with the (original) ignition key. So I didn't have to replace the locks, and now 0327 is back to the CHP single-key spec.

This weekend I'll tackle the fuel tank resto.

[ssp5.0]

Good to hear you got those locks back the way they came originally.
Post some photos of the tank resto, when you are able.
Regards,
Bruce

[Steve]

Finally finished restoring the fuel tank this weekend. I had left it out in the sun at my shop for a few weeks and there were no traces of gas fumes left. First I scrubbed it down good with detergent water and a wire brush, then used coarse steel wool and #220 sandpaper to hand sand off all the rust. I found a Rustoleum paint/primer combo that looked very much like the original steel when dry, so I gave the outside two coats. I did the same to the mounting straps and hand scrubbed the plastic shield with soap and water. A day to dry and it's ready for reinstallation.

Here are a couple of pics. Compare the top pic to the previous one I posted, what a difference. I was lucky there were almost no dents, just a few very small dings. This has got to make 0327 feel good after all these years.

Paint should be starting very soon. I'll visit her this week.

[chp1982]

Nice job. That looks factory.

[ssp5.0]

Looks like a new tank, Steve.

[Wolfe1013]

Looks great. Can you post a photo of the paint you used? Thanks.

[Steve]

Thanks again everyone for the tips and suggestions. It helped a great deal. I took the tank back to the shop where 0327 is today. Below is a pic of it sitting on a stand behind 0327. Just need to glue the protective matting on the top and reinstall. I was hoping to do that today but we just didn't have the time.
My buddy who runs the shop has been super busy, so not much progress lately. But when I go back in to reinstall the tank I'll try to push him a little on the schedule.
I am in the SF Bay Area until Thursday; when I get home I'll post a pic of the primer/paint combo material brand I used.
When I think of how long these restorations take I remember a TV show where they had a yard full of rusting hulks and they'd go pick one out and restore it to sell. No matter what they picked it seemed like in two weeks they had it looking showroom new. And claimed they made a profit selling it...

[ssp5.0]

That turned out great Steve!

[Steve]

Here's a pic of the paint I used to restore the fuel tank. Rustoleum Satin Nickel, got it at Home Depot. It is both primer and paint. As I posted earlier, I took care to get all the dirt and grime off, then hand-sanded and steel-wooled all the rust off. Finally, I used sandpaper to rough up the surface to get good adhesion. Gave it two coats. Even my friend at the body shop said it looked good.

I just got the door glass channel rubber, so I'll take that in next week and see if we have time to reinstall the fuel tank. I'm hoping we make some good progress now, but I doubt it will be ready for the Ripon show in October.

[mac88chp]

The old adage of restorations taking twice as long and costing twice as much as expected still holds true. It was a minor miracle when I got mine through the body shop in the first six months of 2005 which left me three months to complete assembly before its debut at Ripon. I worked on it at max pace during all my free time and it still ended up still being at 95% done when the show rolled around but what the heck. I showed it anyway and then took my time with the remaining work over the winter. Have fun with yours and just do things right and don't worry too much about schedules.

[Steve]

Went by the shop today and got my hands dirty. Reinstalled the fuel tank. The hardest thing about that was trying not to scuff up the bottom of the tank while getting it in place and the straps on. The plastic shield helped out a lot.

The trunk is now painted as is most of the rear end of the car. I am told the progress will accelerate now as a previous (big) project is out and the Mustang is project #1. Next week I'll take the front and rear bumper bars to be sandblasted along with some front end parts.

I'll post more pics when it is interesting.

[mac88chp]

Thanks for the update Steve!

[chp1982]

Finally, paint!!

[xxtrpr]

Great to see progress and it is being posted on here i'm jealous still trying to get NHP in paint shop.

[Steve]

Greetings, everyone! Awful hot here with a week around 100 degrees or above. I visited 0327 and am pleased to report paint is going on. Most of the parts I had sandblasted have been painted. The inside of the hood, trunk lid, the inside of the trunk, and the back end of the veh have been painted. Next are the doors, then they'll get reassembled. I got all new rubber for them so the fit should be good.

I have attached a few pics: Inside trunk lid stripped, then painted. Inside of the hood painted, and finally the back end of the veh with fuel tank reinstalled and paint on the outside.

I think I'll bring the spotlights and install kits in and have my buddy install them. He needs to paint the shells satin anyway, and I'd rather have him tangle with them. I don't want to be scratching the new paint.

[MOstang]

A lot of great progress!

[chp1982]

Things should progress quickly now. Looking good!

[Steve]

Today I called in to the shop where 0327 is. I let them know it is going to be a while, likely 8 weeks, before I make it back in. I was intending to bring the spotlights in, so the shells could be painted and the spotlights installed later, but on August 9 I suffered a fractured fibula bone in my left leg that will require surgery to repair. So right now, with a lot of pain, I am awaiting surgery next Tuesday and mostly just surviving. I'm already getting sick of watching TV.

I did see on the local (Sacramento) news station yesterday a story about a 1979 CHP Camaro somebody had restored. I remember that trial; CHP tested 12 Camaros, mostly in Southern California and the desert areas, but the engines couldn't stand up to rigors of patrol use and CHP went on looking for a suitable candidate. They found it in the SSP Mustang. The Camaros do look cool, and with only 12 they must be very rare.

[mac88chp]

Ouch, been there and done that...no fun. Best of luck with the surgery, then rest up adequately and you'll get better sooner. Old bones just don't take the licking and keep ticking like when we were younger. I took a spill out in my yard 2 weeks ago that has had me laid up since (shoulder and ribs). Kills me to not be getting much done during the long days and good weather of summer but what'cha gonna do? Hope you'll be mobile in time for the Ripon show, take it easy Steve!

[mac88chp]

I did see on the local (Sacramento) news station yesterday a story about a 1979 CHP Camaro somebody had restored. I remember that trial; CHP tested 12 Camaros, mostly in Southern California and the desert areas, but the engines couldn't stand up to rigors of patrol use and CHP went on looking for a suitable candidate. They found it in the SSP Mustang. The Camaros do look cool, and with only 12 they must be very rare.The Camaro on the news is the clone that was owned by the CHP Museum and has many deviations from the originals. It's believed that the high rate of engine failures in the test Camaros was due to employee sabotage during their build at the GM Van Nuys plant. The poor ergonomics and long heavy doors plus higher price of the Camaros worked in favor of the decision to purchase Mustangs.

[Steve]

Thanks for the encouragement and positive response, everyone.

I had the surgery yesterday and it went well; I feel a lot better. While this info is not related to SSP Mustangs, I don't have much else to do these days and thought I would post it here. I'm already getting sick of watching TV and have no interest in Keeping Up With The Kardashians, Springer or Maury, or most of the other inanity on daytime TV that seems to serve as entertainment.

I think when 0327 is complete, I'll contact Local Channel 3 and see if I can get it on their news segment.

I did notice the Camaro was fitted with repro E plates, which I have been wondering about for some time. Since the State of California shut down the guy in Florida who was making repro E plates, would they have any objection to repros on a vehicle in a museum or otherwise publicly shown? I wouldn't want to be served with some kind of legal process due to that.

[mac88chp]

I did notice the Camaro was fitted with repro E plates, which I have been wondering about for some time. Since the State of California shut down the guy in Florida who was making repro E plates, would they have any objection to repros on a vehicle in a museum or otherwise publicly shown? I wouldn't want to be served with some kind of legal process due to that.Good news Steve, rest up!

As far as reproduction E plates, I've never received any grief for displaying them on my car when it's stationary at a show or event. I even kept them on when I was in a parade or controlled event like the escorted burn relay I did a few years back because the car just looked goofy with regular passenger plates on it while all the insignia was uncovered. But since I've replaced the regular plates with historical vehicle plates, I just tend to leave them on when doing those types of events on the road as they sort of "tell the story" of what the car is all about.

https://media.fotki.com/2v29brAPPx3RqKh.jpg

[chp1982]

Glad to hear the surgery went well, Steve.

[Steve]

Glad to hear the surgery went well, Steve.

Thank you, Jon.

[mac88chp]

Hey Steve, this nugget was posted on a CHP related Facebook group. Anything here look familiar?

https://media.fotki.com/2v2J5nrwyx3RqKh.jpg

[Steve]

I wonder if that isn't the intersection of Highway 140 and Highway 165 back in the day. While just within the very northern limits of the Los Banos area, I never had occasion to go up there.

[Steve]

Last Friday, now being slightly mobile, I was able to get to the shop and visit 0327. Over the last month most of the metal pieces taken off the body have been painted. Doors are painted black, hood scoop, hood trim, etc. Next the doors will get the white paint, then the body will be painted.
I think once the body is painted things will move along much faster.

[mac88chp]

I wonder if that isn't the intersection of Highway 140 and Highway 165 back in the day. While just within the very northern limits of the Los Banos area, I never had occasion to go up there.It was identified as Los Banos Area.

[Steve]

I visited 0327 last week. The body is being painted now. The black areas are mostly done; next is the white top, then the parts (doors, trunk, hood, etc. go back on). I am shooting for an end of February completion of the body and paint, then the interior will start.
Below are some photos. This guy likes to paint the body in sections. Seems odd to me, but it's the way he does it; he's the artist and I would never tell an artist they're holding the brush wrong...

[NoDrama43]

My painter paints it all in pieces as well. Then bolts the panels back together.

[mac88chp]

Looking good Steve. My car was painted in that same sequence as well.

[Steve]

I'm happy to know this isn't an unusual process at all; thanks for the comments.
When we begin the journey of restoration, especially when it takes a long time, sometimes it's useful to take a look back and see what we started with. I've had to be patient with the progress, but I do believe it is being done right. Just as a comparison, here's a pic of what 0327's back end looked like when it was stripped down and what it looks like today.

[mac88chp]

Be sure and try to take as many photos as possible of the body work and paint process. They are vital documentation of the quality of your restoration and play an important part in establishing the value of your car.

[chp1982]

Sooo close, Steve!

[Steve]

Be sure and try to take as many photos as possible of the body work and paint process. They are vital documentation of the quality of your restoration and play an important part in establishing the value of your car.

Will do, thanks for the suggestion!

As of Jan 31, the white roof and sail panels are complete. Windshield and back window trim are installed. Next the doors will go back on, followed by the fenders.

The front end (that goes over the bumper bar and includes the grill) came out rough on first painting, so it was sanded down again and it will be repainted next week.

[Wolfe1013]

Looking great, Steve. These stages are always exciting. One day I’ll get there!

Greg

[MOstang]

Excellent progress!

[Steve]

Visited 0327 in the shop today. The rear end is all put together (pic 1). Driver's door is assembled and in place (pic 2). Next will be passenger door, fenders, then hood, then front end.
The reason it's taken so long is my friend takes everything apart, cleans, removes rust/reconditions every part, then reassembles. Hardware and metal fasteners get tumbled to clean them. He took the doors completely apart; windows out, all mechanical components. Cleaned inside and out, then painted both sides. Removed all rust and cleaned the parts. Reassembled with new rubber and greased the moving parts. It's like new. A lot of details I'm not sure I would have done myself, but that door in place operates like new. Perfectly aligned, closes solidly, etc.
I'm getting the interior shop down the street all lined up and ready. He says with all materials and components he can knock that out in 2 days. We'll see...

[Florida528]

That's the way to do it, looks great! Viva la Fox!!

[mac88chp]

Doing it right like that makes a huge difference in the long run Steve and is worth the effort/dollars now. No hidden problems that can come back to haunt you years later that may be very hard to repair once the car is all put back together. Wow, I can't wait to see the finished product.

[28HopUp]

Thanks for the update; 'looking great!

[MOstang]

It is looking great!

[Steve]

Thanks, everyone, for the encouragement. Mike, I am really hoping to have it ready for the Ripon EV show in October. I hope you will be there this year.

[Steve]

Passenger door is reassembled and installed. My buddy painted it twice because he didn't like the way it came out the first time. I just sent him more money and told him I want to pick up the pace, as I want to have 0327 ready for the Ripon EV Show in October of this year.
I also told him to repaint the "hockey sticks", the trim on the rear quarter panels that cover the paint break between the black quarters and the white pillars. He had painted them white and said they look good in white and that Ford would have painted them that way. CHP1982 (Jon) told me they must be satin black to be correct and I looked through some photos, including 0255, and they indeed were. I told my friend I don't care what Ford would have done, satin black it shall be!
This next week I will be visiting 0327 and hope to have more updated photos.

[Steve]

Everything is done now except for fenders (next week) and front bumper cover/grill. Pics are below; I had my pal Dahui Zonggao post them in the Facebook SSPMustang.net group for me so our FB friends would see them too.

[Andy]

Nice Work Steve:)