Great progress, Steve. Please get a picture of 0327 and 0204 when you can.

Thanks for that write up and information Steve. There's more and more of these cars turning up and the owners can use it. 👍🏻

Wiring Harnesses
 

Eric, previous owner of 0204, was kind enough to email a scan of a vintage wiring diagram from 1984. Using it as a guide not only for connections but also wire colors and sizes, I am putting together a set of harnesses. It doesn't seem difficult; but there are a couple of things on the drawing (attached below) that I don't know what to do with:

1. A Red wire going from the 1.5A fuse of the RC fuses to something labeled "M. Box". I haven't figured out what the M. Box is. "RC" probably means Radio Console or similar, because other fuses from that block supply power to the scanner and the Micor.

2. A yellow wire going from the 10A fuse on the B+ fuse block to the "Repeater". I think this would run all the way to the trunk to power a unit located in the trunk. I think that is the same repeater that is also connected to the small whip antenna mounted on the center rear portion of the roof. Back in the day I always thought that small antenna on the roof was for the Regency scanner. I wish I had paid more attention to details then, took photos, etc.

One More Thing...
 

Shotgun Release Switches

The shotgun lock release switches. The diagram shows 3 methods of activating the shotgun rack release. My memory of this is cloudy because of all the many other patrol cars I have driven over the years but I think I remember two switches and a key. The switches were one under the dash (pushbutton) and possibly one on the CC1. Both active only when the ignition key is on. Then a small key on the ignition key ring that would open the shotgun lock. Wish I remembered better.

Here's a pic of 0327 (foreground) and 0204 (background) side by side in my shop. I keep the hoods open to discourage mice from setting up shop there. I also keep a baited trap on the floor inside each vehicle in case they get inside. I've taken one mouse out of each to date.

Thanks, Steve! The fleet is looking great. Regarding rodents, I bought the following and have been very pleased.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00J1...s=rat+repeller

Steve, my car has only two releases and no key on the lock. The first is a foot switch (generic horn button) up on the drivers footwell and the second is a momentary switch mounted under the dash below the right glovebox door hinge.

http://media.fotki.com/1_p,gqggrtrkb...10notes-vi.jpg

http://media.fotki.com/1_p,gkqgdfwsg...nswitch-vi.jpg

Here's a shot of the underdash switch in my car. I made up a reproduction bracket and used as close as i could come to the original style switch.

http://media.fotki.com/1_p,gkqgrsbrt...1010481-vi.jpg

Thanks, Michael, that's very helpful. I think I was confusing the shotgun release buttons and the key with later Crown Vics I've driven that had a momentary rocker switch on the lights control boxes to release the shotgun. They also had a key to unlock it.

I'm going to check 0327 to see if anything is still left. But with your info, it shouldn't be too difficult to recreate them.

I see your CHP fuse block is shown. Is that the original location? I thought I saw something somewhere mentioning they were under the hood, but I don't see any good place to put them.

The CHP fuse blocks were mounted under the dash near the steering column in the Mustangs.

http://media.fotki.com/1_p,gqkfdfsdq...1010413-vi.jpg

Today I spent a few hours revealing 0327's spotlight and antenna ball mounting holes. For the spotlights I used a cylindrical sanding tool with a Dremel and sanded the paint away carefully to show the Bondo spots. Once they were visible I used an Xacto knife to carve away the bondo (first photo). I wanted to be very careful not to enlarge the mounting screw holes.

Removing about a quarter inch of Bondo inside the trunk where the antenna mount is was much more work. I had to be careful because there was Bondo on both sides of the metal. I didn't want to knock any of the outside Bondo off or damage the metal shape and create more body work. Carefully chipping away as much Bondo on the inside as I could with a putty knife then grinding the rest away, I could see where the three bolt holes and the center hole were from the trunk side. I then drilled the bolt holes and the center hole, using the Dremel tool once again to remove the rest of the Bondo to the original-sized center hole. (second and third photos)

The ball mount fits perfectly. It was a good day for 0327. A little at a time, just keep moving forward...

Nice!

Good work! Thank god my car was never "civilianized" and all holes were left intact and unmolested.

Looks great!

be sure to spray a little etching primer on the holes, inside and out, to prevent any surface rusting etc.

Wig Wag Flasher Installation
 

With the great help of Jim (NoDrama43) I now have an NOS Unitrol M131 Wig-Wag Flasher unit for 0327. I had one from 0204 but it was original and had seen better days. And I did not have any instructions on how to connect it. I had even called Federal Signal Corp. (Federal acquired Unitrol's parent, Dunnbar-Nunn, some time ago) technical support for information, but they were unable to help.

Along with the NOS unit came installation instructions with a wiring diagram. I spent a couple of hours today figuring out how this unit wired into 0327's headlight circuit. I found where the wiring harness had been opened up near the master brake cylinder, and where it had been opened right below where the wig wag flasher had been installed on the left side of the engine bay just in front of the shock tower. It was obvious Motor Transport had cut the wires and spliced in the flasher in those two places, reconnecting the cut wires upon decommissioning.

It didn't take long to figure out which splice was for which high beam side; the RH was near the firewall. the one for the LH was near the wig wag flasher. One more wire, +12V from the WW terminal on the back of the CC1 completes the circuit.

I'll post all photos and more details when I have it installed, wired and working, but for now, and for future restorers, I am posting the installation instruction page in jpeg and pdf formats.

The wire I ordered came in so next step is to build some harnesses.

Wig Wag Flasher Installed and Working
 

Today I completed installation of the Wig Wag Flasher. Attached to this post are an enlargement of the Unitrol connection diagram and a photo of the flasher installed in 0327.

On the '82 Mustang, the low beam headlights have two filaments. One filament is for low beam only, the other filament is powered up when the high beams are on. As shown in the stock wiring diagram, when the low beams are on, the headlight switch connects power to the low beam filaments but cuts off the power to them and switches power to the high-beam element in the low beams plus to the high-beam filaments when the high beam switch on the steering column is clicked on.

Once I located the two places CHP Motor Transport had spliced in to the wiring harness, the next task was to figure out which side went to the headlights and which side came from the headlight switch. Cut the splices, turn on the headlight switch, then check voltage at the wires. The side with +12V is coming from the switch in both cases.

I used #4 self-tapping sheet metal screws to attach the flasher to the sidewall, using the original holes. Self-tappers ensured a good ground connection for the case of the Flasher.

The +12V input wire (blue in the photo, as in the CHP wiring diagram) would be connected to the WW terminal on the back of the Federal CC1 controller. I don't have the CC1 installed yet so I just touched it to a voltage source to test. The wig wags worked perfectly!

Another good day for 0327.

Nice write up, good work! One more task down.

Great write up and detail, Steve. I for one really appreciate it. I had a photo of the instructions but never a scan or the added detail and commentary you just documented. Many thanks. Keep up the great work.

It's so cool to see someone who actually drove an 82 CHP Mustang share in the passion and restoration of now not one, but two of them.

Carry on. 👍🏻

1982 Mustang Headlight Wiring With Flasher Splices
 

Thanks, Mac and Wolfe, for the feedback. I had some extra time this evening so I put the details of what to cut and how to connect the Unitrol WW Flasher into the stock Mustang headlight wiring diagram. This should complete documentation of the Wig Wag restoration.

Next up: CC1 and CHP Fuse Block wiring harnesses. I'm just waiting for the fuse blocks I ordered to arrive then I'll custom mount them.

Typical CHP Wiring Harness Restoration
 

I almost forgot to post photos of the two locations where CHP Motor Transport cut the headlight wires to splice in the Wig Wag flasher, then reconnected the wires after decommissioning.

The first photo is of the harness by the ECM module, just below where the WW flasher mounted. You can clearly see the Light Green/Black stripe headlight wire indicated in the stock Mustang headlight wiring diagrams. MT reconnected the wires with the light Blue wire.

The second photo is of the splice location in the harness along the firewall, just behind the master brake cylinder. MT used the same blue wire to reconnect the Light Green/Black stripe wires. The blue wire goes up into the harness. A messy reconnect; used 2 wire colors (blue and red) in series.

Both of these splices had been tucked in to the harnesses after reconnect, but were easy to find. That blue wire MT used really stood out! I'm happy they made the restoration job easier.

Fabricating the CHP Fuse Block for the 1982 Mustang
 

It’s been raining and storming here for the last week, and I had some extra time, so it seemed like a good time to build the fuse block for 0327. I didn’t have much to go on in trying to figure out how CHP built their custom fuse block for the 1982 Mustang, so I looked at what others have done for various years, the 1984 wiring diagram I posted earlier in this thread, and started a design.
The first thing I looked at was where I might put it. Under the dash, driver’s side, above the clutch pedal, there is a lot of room. Then, what materials were available. Any number of fuse blocks are available online, from 4 circuits to 12 or more, some very simple, others more complicated and expensive. The main problem is that, as shown in the 1984 wiring diagram, there are 10 circuits, fed by 3 sources. All of the fuse blocks I could find had provision for only one input connection. So I settled on the 4-circuit block shown in the first photo, Fuse Block Purchased, below. You can get them online from Amazon or eBay, or elsewhere. They are very inexpensive. I ordered 3; that would enable each one to be powered from the 3 sources (Mustang stock fuse block, CC1 B+, and CC1 RC) independently. I needed 10 fuses; this combination gives 12 but on two of the blocks I could just leave one circuit unused.
I had a piece of insulating board material in my electronics parts bin; it is about ¼” thick, rigid, and is ideal for mounting the fuse blocks. I laid them as shown out in the next photo, Fuse Blocks Mounted, leaving sufficient space in between to be able to run connecting wires in with spade lugs without bending the wires too close to the lugs and putting stress on the connections. I like ring and spade lugs but you have to be careful; even with the right-sized lugs, crimped with the right tool, the wire can pull out or loosen if strained.
After mounting the fuse blocks, the next step was to locate where the input power leads would come in and attach. I used a piece of solid bare #14 wire (from household “Romex” type cable to connect all the terminals on one side of each fuse block, creating a bus. The next photo, Input Wire In Place, shows all 3 with the solid wire soldered to each fuse block terminal. You have to be careful when soldering to the fuse block terminals; they were intended for spade lugs and if you overheat those terminals it can melt the plastic block. The free end of each copper wire goes to a ring connector screwed down to the board. When connected in the system the incoming power line ring connectors will go to those terminals.
The other side of the fuses are where the powered devices will connect, using spade lugs. In order to protect all the wiring from possible contact, to give a finished appearance, and enable a means to label the fuses, I needed a second board to go on top. I took a piece of prototyping board, available at any electronics supply house, and carefully marked then cutout sections using a Dremel tool so it would fit over the 3 fuse blocks. This board type is very convenient because the pattern of the pre-drilled holes makes it easy to mark and cut and line things up. It is also very easy to cut with the Dremel. The next photo, Top Cover, shows this board in place. The following photo, Side View With Both Boards, shows it in place with standoff hardware mounted in between so the top board can be fastened down.
With the basic assembly done, the next step was to figure out how to mount this assembly. Many measure, fit, mark, trim, etc. trips under 0327’s dash later, I had it figured out. By the way, I did what my mechanic friend advised if doing a lot of work under the dash: I took the driver’s seat out. This allows you to lay on your back and work much more comfortably. I even folded up a large beach towel as a pad to lay on, and it worked well. I also fabricated an aluminum mounting bracket that picks up a hole in an existing Mustang bracket used to mount a relay or a flasher, then did final trimming and fitting. Fabricating the bracket enabled a really secure mounting that gets this fuse block well up under the dash, out of view but easily accessible, while not interfering with clutch operation.
The last photo, Finished, shows the completed assembly, with mounting bracket installed. Input sources and powered circuits are labeled. I printed the labels on paper, cut them out, and glued them. I need to pick up some 2A fuses to complete populating the fuses. The unused (unlabeled) fuse positions are handy for holding spares. Final size for the assembly is 10 ¼” long, 3 ½” wide, and 1 5/8” thick. Since I had most of the materials in my shop already total cost was less than $20.
When I finish the wiring harnesses, and connect the fuse block, I will post some pics of it installed and wired.

Amazing work, Steve! Do you double as an electrical engineer in your second life after the CHP? 👍🏻

Great job and excellent write-up. Thanks​ for sharing. :)

Yes, my main occupation is Electrical Engineer. I left CHP to go back to College and earn a BSEE degree. But I still work in LE part time, both for a Sheriff's Office and for a local city PD. 37 years total now.

It's supposed to be rainy again the next few days, which means inside work. Next up will be completing the wiring harnesses and installing the Federal TS100 outside speaker.

Very nice work. Here is a shot of a CHP fuse block I owned at one time. John S. (John10608) has it now.

http://media.fotki.com/1_p,gqkfdfsdq...1010413-vi.jpg

I did see that one and it helped inspire my version.

Invaluable information, Steve. Maybe this can be integrated into the CHP Restoration document.

Federal TS100 Outside Speaker Installed
 

It was cloudy and cold again today, a perfect day for inside work. I had recently received the 100W outside speaker purchased on eBay, so I thought this would be a good day to install it.
The TS100 is a little larger than I expected, and is heavy, no doubt due to having a large permanent magnet in the coil area. The first thing to do was look at 0327 to see where it would go and what I could take advantage of from the past.
On 0327, the original had been installed on the driver’s side. That was obvious because there was a rectangular cutout in the lower bumper near the LF corner, and I could see where CHP had cut part of the plastic splash protection out on the inside of the LF fender to enable access to the area inside. I took the speaker assembly and tried fitting it into that area. I was hoping to see an indicator of what type of mounting bracket CHP had used and where it was, but there was only one obvious hole drilled in the underside of the frame that might have been used. It was inconclusive. So I knew I would have to fabricate something.
The speaker came with a mounting bracket that I couldn’t use as is, but it did pick up two of the mounting holes of the coil housing. So I modified the bracket, then fabricated an L bracket that would mount to the underside of the frame and attach to the modified speaker bracket. I used 1/8” stainless steel sheet to make the L bracket; it had to be strong and SS would prevent rust. It was some work and there were several hours of trial fit, marking, and modifying to get it right. I wanted it securely mounted, tucked in as much as possible, but not touching or too close to the radiator or anything that could damage it from contact and vibration. The most difficult part was the plastic air intake snorkel tube the Mustang uses (on each side). It takes up a lot of room in there and one edge of it pressed against the speaker horn and prevented it from going far enough into the well to enable square and a well-located mounting for the assembly.
I don’t know what CHP did; I wonder if they had a TS100 with a slightly smaller horn? I cut three slits in the open part of the snorkel tube to enable it to flex where the horn pushed against it to relieve the stress. Then I drilled three pilot holes in the underside of the frame, and mounted the L bracket with heavy-duty self-drilling screws. I had already run the wires into the area, and I wanted to keep the connectors the speaker came with, so I spliced the wiring by soldering them then using shrink tubing to protect the splices. I also used plastic flex tubing to protect the wires all the way from where they came through the firewall; I really like the look of that tubing. You can use regular speaker wire for this, 16 or 18 gauge is fine.
There was no way I could see to mount the unit so the speaker horn is oriented the same way as the cutout in the front bumper, or get any closer to it without cutting out a large piece of the air intake snorkel. So the speaker horn is oriented 90 degrees different than the cutout, but everything is lined up, brackets are straight, so I’m good with it. As soon as I get the CC1 and MPA2 installed I will be able to test.

Great write-ups, Steve.

Here is a picture of the mounts that CHP fabbed up for the siren speaker. It's in the CHP resto doc also. I know it's a newer car than yours, but I'm pretty sure my '82 still had it there also.

http://www.specialservicemustang.net...CHPspeaker.jpg

I looked at that photo carefully before starting this and the '82 seems somewhat different in that area. A bracket going between the frame and the lower edge of the fender would have dropped the speaker down substantially lower than the underside of the body parts, and I didn't want to do that. The speaker in the photo looks, scale-wise, smaller than the one I have, and would also have had to be substantially smaller to look anything like the mounting in that photo.

As soon as I get the MPA2 cable done, I can wire everything up and test it.

That cable went out yesterday. Hope it (and the connectors) help out.

I tried to link to my Photobucket earlier, but their site was down. Here is the best picture I could find of my old '82. You can see the bracket there. It's definitely different than the newer version in the resto doc.

http://s299.photobucket.com/user/ime...tml?sort=3&o=0

Thanks, Mike I'll be ready for that cable. The photos are a very useful reference source.

0327 Electrical Testing
 

I installed the fuse block, CC1 and MPA2, wired everything else up. Today I powered up the CC1 for the first time.

What is working: Spotlights, rear deck lights, shotgun rack (release and map light).

What is not working: Siren, PA output. When I set the CC1 switch to Siren (with ignition on) I get a loud click from the outside speaker, indicating that it at least is getting some output from the MPA2. Same with the PA, with a mic plugged into the CC1, flipping the PA switch on the CC1 to the on position results in the same click from the speaker, but no sound output.

Could be the mic for the PA is no good. I wonder whether the horn ring circuit for the CC1 has to be connected for the siren to work at all. I have not wanted to set up the horn-controlled (Manual) siren; I don't think it would be useful.

Tonight I will have to get into the schematics of the CC1 and MPA2 to understand what to troubleshoot.

It's alive! Mostly. I can't wait to see it all functioning, Steve. 0327 is in good hands.

Steve,

When I tested the big batch of CC1s/MPA2s I found a few years back, I didn't use the horn ring circuit.

Sounds like it could be a bad amp or bad speaker to me.

Yes, it is alive. I forgot to mention the Wig Wags work also.

I'll try testing the speaker separately; then it will be back to basics on troubleshooting. Tracing power through the MPA2, looking at schematics, etc. I'm glad to know you didn't need the horn ring circuit connected, Mike, that helps to know that.

I really want the siren and PA working. At the Ripon Emergency Vehicle Show in October, they have a parade of the vehicle through town, Code 3. I want 0327 standing tall and looking good with all emergency eqpt working!

Yesterday I applied for registration at DMV as a historical vehicle (great suggestion from Mac88chp, I had forgotten about that). So now it's street legal to drive, I can get it tuned up and smog checked and start putting a few miles on her to shake off the rust.

MPA2 Troubleshooting
 

The Federal MPA2 Siren/Amplifier is very easy to bench test. Today I did that; simply connected B+ and B- to 12 Volts DC, the speaker output to a speaker powerful enough to handle the 100W output, then connected +12V to pin 9 of the input connector. The siren Wail function worked as it should.

So I've got a bad CC1. I opened it up; it has a repair tag inside from 1986. I doubt it's seen any servicing since then.

The plastic output connector, J1, that connects to the MPA2, has seen better days. Both tabs on the sides that hold it in the housing have become brittle and broken off, so the connector floats. Plus all the pins are badly oxidized. I tried to clean them using an emery board, but it is very difficult to do a good job. It is possible the +12V the CC1 siren switch sends to pin 9 for Wail wasn't making it past the oxidized pin.

Fortunately, all of the connectors and pins are still made and are readily available online from DigiKey. So I am going to order a replacement connector, pins, then build a new one. It's tedious work but worth a shot. If after that it doesn't work then the electronics section of the CC1 that controls this signal, and the PA system, are likely bad. I'll then probably just look for a known good CC1 to buy.

Meanwhile, I can always just route +12V through the siren switch directly to pin 9 and make the siren work, which at least gets that part done.

When this is all complete I'll document the whole thing with all the connector and pin p/s, etc.

Good call on not hooking up the horn ring circuit. I had mine hooked up and it worked great for about 7 years but now I'm having an issue with my siren operation that I suspect lies in that circuit. For the parade duty these cars will only likely see nowadays you're right that it's not all that useful.

Nice work. Those CC1s are like tanks...hopefully it's just the bad contact.

0327 Goes Out For a Drive
 

It was a nice sunny day today so while I wait for parts to come in to repair the CC1 I thought I should work on getting 0327 ready for its visit to the smog checking shop next week. I put a bottle of Techron fuel system cleaner in the fuel tank, took out all my tools, put the driver's seat back in, and went for a drive. After warming up it felt really good. Lots of power, as I remember, and I appreciate all the work chp1982 did on the suspension. It felt solid.

Then I parked it and took some photos. You can see in the photos I still have the dash pad and bezels out; when the CC1 is working I'll reinstall everything.

It was a good feeling behind the wheel of an 82 SSP again. Brought back many memories.