[Steve]

Work is progressing on the restoration. I've started in the interior, with the idea of wiring, fixing interior issues that I can handle, then taking the car to a shop for headliner replacement.

Carburetor/Electric Choke: On cold start the engine would jump to a high idle (~2500 rpm) and take forever before it could be brought down. Only when it was thoroughly warmed up could I get it to come down. Those 2-barrel carbs have electric chokes so I checked the voltage supplied from the alternator, and it was ~1.7, ok. Then I checked the choke coil and it was bad. Replaced the choke coil, adjusted the choke, and works great now.

Package tray: Completely shot, so using the old one as a pattern, I fabricated a replacement. As soon as the 3M fabric spray glue comes in I'll get the fabric cover on and install it.

Speakers (dash): The original Ford 3.5", 3.2 Ohm speakers were shot. Perhaps I could have reconed them, but I couldn't find any small speaker reconing kits for sale, probably because it is far cheaper to just replace them. I thought about sending them to a shop for reconing, but it would have been very expensive and there are so many other places to put the money. I found a good set of 3.5" full-range speakers online, and they are almost exact drop-in replacements for the originals. They even have the same size and type of mounting flange and the holes for the screws match up. They are 4 Ohm; I have read that CHP ordered 3.2 Ohm custom to work with the CC1 output. The small impedance difference probably wouldn't matter, but I soldered a 1/2W 18 Ohm resistor across the terminals of each speaker to bring the impedance close to 3.2 Ohms anyway.

I was hoping to find some wiring harnesses left under the dash for connection to the CC1, but I didn't so I will have to make the harnesses up. So I need to sit down and make up a plan, get a fusebox, etc. It's tempting to get a fuse panel that uses the modern blade fuses, since I will hide the panel under the dash anyway, but I'll have to think about that.

Rear Deck Amber/Red lights: I had a set someone put together, but it was not wired and had only a single, flat bracket with two holes to fasten it down to the package tray. The original package tray had no such holes. When I removed the rear seat I found two holes had been drilled, 15" apart in the sheet metal about 2" under the package tray deck, right about where the light set would have been located. I think those are the originals, so I am going to modify the mounting bracket to use those holes. Rewiring already done for the light set and they work well.

One of these days I am going to do a bench setup of the CC1 Controller I have to see if it works.

Wig Wag Controller (Unitrol Model 131): I have one, but it's old and I don't know if it works. The circuit itself is pretty straightforward and I know you can get the relay and the flasher, but if someone has an NOS one for sale I'd be in the market for it.