ecm questions.

[JerryPHX]

I tried to look-up the 10-11 code but my old list only has two digit codes. Later years went to three so a found a digit list on-line but I don't know how to convert your numbers to three digits.

You do have a lot of codes showing which leads me to think about the ground or lack of it throwing everything wacky. Grounding is very important. I can not stress it enough. The sensors need a perfect ground. Did you check the cable from the battery to the body and then runs to the engine block. Please make sure all you grounds are not corroded/ rusted. They may look good visually but I would disconnect them, clean them and then re-install along with a spot of Dielectric grease.
Then check all the wiring under the hood.

I'm not a mechanic either (at least not since the late 60's) but simple stuff can be looked at and confirmed by an owner. You have to stop throwing money (parts) at this thing.
Can you get it to a Ford dealer (even tow it), pay the one hour rate for a Diagnostic fee and let them tell you what it needs? You don't have to have them fix it unless you want them to. I did this years ago and all it needed was two plug wires and something else I forgot. Before that I replaced a lot of parts (money) that weren't needed.

Oh, ECT= engine coolant temp,
ACT= aircharge temp sensor,
MAF= mass air flow sensor
BAP= (can't find)

What was this car doing or better yet what were you doing to the car just before this started?? You didn't Power Wash the engine did you?

Let us know,
Jerry

[meders]

i didn't type that right the 10 in between codes is a separator between the codes being read and the ones stored in continuous memory. 10 wasn't a code.

all i did before this started happening was lightly rinsed off the engine. it has the distributor cover and coil cover and i was gentle with it. nothing had been changed or modified from april 2016 to august 2017 when this started.

i looked up that encore mustang guy and they want 399 for a rebuilt unit.

is there something i should look into about the spraying off of the engine before i go further. all the grounds are clean and secure.

[JerryPHX]

Two things come to mind;

#1- I rinsed my engine bay (years ago) and the car immediately began running terrible. Long story short I took it to the dealer, they hooked it up to their machine and I wound up replacing two sensors. Can't remember which ones they were but it ran fine afterwords. I remember they were easy to get to.

#2- That rubber distributor cover- I wound up removing and throwing away after I found corroded contacts and rotor on one of my cars. IT holds in moisture! Removed them from every 5.0 I would ever own. So, look inside you dist cap.

Remember the wiring on your car is 27 years old. It's old and has cracks that can't be seen with the naked eye which will short out when wet. So are the sensors AND their connectors (whose gaskets have shrunk).
I'd find a way to dry everything out, like parking it in the sun with the hood up for a two or three days, while it's drying I'd unplug each sensor/ plug connection/ wire connection and even the coil wire at the coil (one at a time) to inspect the inside of the connection for moisture and dry it out. Then fasten the connector plug before moving on to the next.

Hope this helps,
Let us know how it turns out,
Jerry

[JerryPHX]

Hope this shows up.

[meders]

yeah it shows up but when you add it to your cart it says 0 quantity available. i also went by o'reillys the other night with the stock number and they don't have it in their computer.

i am going by a tuner shop nearby today to ask about the reflashing then i am going to look into the fuse links. since they would have gotten wet with the rinsing of the engine.

one other thing that i noticed after the car died on me and limped it home was that the hose from the intake to the charcoal canister was not attached. i don't know how long it had been that way. it could have been that way since i bought it. but it ran perfectly 16 months.

[JerryPHX]

Good luck with the ECM.
I don't remember the canister hoses routing but I would reattach it.
I'm surprised the little yellow "check engine" light on the dash wasn't on. When it does light it's a Emission problem.
Also, something I remembered last night. On my present car, if the Battery isn't totally 100% (getting old) it starts "throwing codes" on the instrument panel and door modules, seat modules and interior lights all go crazy. I also know that if the ECM isn't receiving a full 12 volts, it will shut down. So, possibly with your car shutting down after 10 minutes of running it maybe trying to tell you something.
So, How's the battery and alternator?

Let us know what happens,
Jerry

[meders]

well i had to but this on the back burner for the time being. my daily driver toyota truck needed some repairs. idler arm broke and driver side tire was wearing on the inside down to almost threads. got that fixed today and tomorrow get the 26 year old busted shocks replaced.

the battery is getting some age and not sure about alternator but once the weather gets better, next 4 days don't look good, those will be looked into.