1982 CHP #0327

[Steve]

Originally Posted by chp1982

I never got around to installing that nos switch. Looks like maybe I did myself a favor!

I was thinking about what you told me, that it can be a PITA. You can't see far enough under the dash, from any position, to see that shaft locking pin release button. So unless you know it's there, you'll never get that old switch out (without destroying the lower dash trim, that is, lol).

[Steve]

Today 0327 got the new dash speakers installed and the instrument cluster removed, renewed, and replaced.

The plan for the dash speakers is to connect them to the output of the Regency Scanner (working), which then will simulate radio traffic (I have no plans to try to get the two-way radio working). I also want to splice that output to the radio input of the CC1, fingers crossed, so it can go to the outside speaker. But at a minimum there will be simulated radio traffic inside the car.

I took the instrument cluster out, then on my workbench took it apart, cleaned everything, polished the input connector contacts and the panel bulb contacts. I also removed 35 years of dust from it and the dash area where it mounts. Two bulbs were replaced.

There is a fair amount of rust in some of these areas. When 0327 was in Washington State it apparently sat outside for extended periods and water got inside and stayed there. So many of those steel interior parts, under the dash, fasteners, support brackets, etc. were unprotected steel. chp1982 did a great job cleaning up mold and the carpet. As I take things apart and get deeper in I find rust. Everything is functional, and a lot of it you don't see when every thing is together, but I figure while it is apart it can be mitigated.

I use a product called "CorrosionX". I use it on nuts and bolts that are rusted before I put them back together, or as a wipe down treatment of just about any metal surface that has small rust pits or just needs a polishing. I also put some on a Q-tip and dab it on rusted screw heads, washers, clips, just about anything that has been attacked by rust. Let it sit for a few minutes and wipe it off. It gives a nice patina, removes the rust color, and leaves a protective film. Got it on Amazon. Does a great job imo. Even for things I am not actually taking it apart, I use it just to make it look better.

I have two pics below showing dash screws and clips before and after using this material. The light isn't very good as it is getting dark but you can see some difference.

[mac88chp]

Wow, you are taking your restoration very seriously with all the right details Steve and I admire that greatly. Keep the updates coming!

Thank goodness #3035 spent it's entire life in the dry CA Central Valley before I acquired it. While most of the interior was burned to a crisp, at least I never had to deal with a bit of interior (or exterior for that matter) rust. I never hooked up my dash speakers to the Regency scanner but sometimes wished that I had over the years as the output would have been louder than just that coming from the scanner itself. It really only mattered when I was on the road where I like to keep tabs on the car-to-car chatter concerning my presence out there.

The output from the scanner itself is sufficient at shows and events to simulate radio traffic and I never hooked up my Micor broadcast radio as well. I always program my scanner for all the areas I plan to travel through when I'm in transit and make sure I have the local frequencies on when I'm showing. But I have to tell you I don't hear near the radio traffic these days as it seems more and more communications have moved over to the CAD system.

[Steve]

Today I installed the CC1 with the rebuilt output connector. Everything now works, from all of the lights to the PA system, outside speaker, and siren. After 30+ years...

I also connected the Regency M100 scanner output to the dash speakers and the CC1's "Radio" input.

I had previously taken the dash speakers (4 Ohm) and added a resistor across the terminals to drop their impedance to 4 Ohms, which is what the Micor system wants. But since I will not be using the Micor, and instead using scanner output to simulate radio traffic, I needed an 8 ohm impedance because this is what the Regency output needs for a load. By connecting the dash speakers in series, it gives 8 Ohms. Perfect.

It was awesome to hear the scanner output both from the dash speakers, and on the outside speaker.

Next week 0327 goes in for tune-up, smog check, and some minor mechanicals.

[Steve]

Originally Posted by Steve

Today I installed the CC1 with the rebuilt output connector. Everything now works, from all of the lights to the PA system, outside speaker, and siren. After 30+ years...

I also connected the Regency M100 scanner output to the dash speakers and the CC1's "Radio" input.

I had previously taken the dash speakers (4 Ohm) and added a resistor across the terminals to drop their impedance to 4 Ohms, which is what the Micor system wants. But since I will not be using the Micor, and instead using scanner output to simulate radio traffic, I needed an 8 ohm impedance because this is what the Regency output needs for a load. By connecting the dash speakers in series, it gives 8 Ohms. Perfect.

It was awesome to hear the scanner output both from the dash speakers, and on the outside speaker.

Next week 0327 goes in for tune-up, smog check, and some minor mechanicals.

I should proofread a little better before I hit the Submit Reply button...I meant I had added the resistor across the 4 Ohm dash speakers to drop their impedance to ~3.2 Ohms. By removing the resistors they reverted to 4 Ohms.

[chp1982]

Great job, Steve. If you can post a link to a video at some point, I'd love to see how exactly it all works.

[Steve]

Today at 0900 0327 went into the shop for a thorough tune-up, smog check, and new rear wheel bearings. Which isn't news as I have been talking about it for the last few weeks. But it does have a story associated, that I think might be of amusement to SSP enthusiasts.

The car was checked in by one of the founders, who is close to retirement, and is somewhat a curmudgeon. All the personality of a fence post. Perhaps all the years of doing mundane, monotonous work on grocery-getters has dulled his senses and although he doesn't do the work any more, you'd think something out of the ordinary would get his attention, generate a spark of enthusiasm. Nope. He goes out to get the mileage and VIN for the shop order. 0327's interior is out and only the driver's seat is installed. I had told him at the start the veh. was in the process of being restored (so no comments about the interior or any other part are necessary).

He writes down the info, then says "You want to restore this thing?" "Yes", I replied. it's a former CHP patrol car. "So what?" he fires back, demonstrating complete lack of knowledge, understanding, and interest. 'There's an entire hobby devoted to restoring and collecting these cars" I informed him. " He shook his head, smiled slightly, then said "Well...congratulations" then shook his head some more. Too bad this guy doesn't own a tow yard full of SSPs and says to me "I just want them out of here".

Some people will never get it...and don't want to.

Meanwhile, I modified 0327's extender roof-mount antenna cable by removing the coax connector and replacing it with one compatible with the input jack to the Regency scanner.

The now-working CC1 and MPA2 and their new cable are waiting patiently to be installed once 0327 comes back from the shop.

[Steve]

0327 is in the shop sitting...waiting for a part...I registered it in California, as a historical vehicle, but even though it will be driven very seldom, California still requires that it pass the smog check. So the shop is going through everything and they find out that the Exhaust Manifold Heat Riser (pic below ATP 105012) has been modified, essentially removed, and it has to be replaced. That alone causes it to fail the smog check and there is no point continuing with anything else until that problem is solved. Should be no problem, right? Order one, a few days later it's in, install and move on.

Except that although many places online list the part, actually getting one is a challenge. They ordered one on eBay, two days later the seller refunded the money and said he didn't actually have the part. I've ordered one from a parts dealer online, but the best they can tell me is it ships from the manufacturer. No eta on when/if it might ship. So now it's on hold.

I can handle things like making wiring harnesses, troubleshooting the CC1 and MPA2, things that seem like real problems. But it is a simple little emissions-control part that brings the whole thing to a stopping point. A little vacuum-controlled valve that probably nobody ever knew or cared was in there. I looked at 0204 to see if it had one I could borrow. The same mod has been done to it so no go there. I am guessing perhaps over time this part, with it's butterfly valve in the center, gets sticky and stays closed and that causes problems so that's why they were modified by removing the butterfly valve and vacuum solenoid.

It's so annoying because I can't get 0327 to the differential or body shop (my friend's shop) that are 150 miles away until I get the registration completed.

[Steve]

I've searched the Internet, there are two eBay listings, but they are the same seller and there is NO stock; the 10 available shown is an error. I've been in contact and they said they have been trying to take them down but eBay software keeps reposting. I have checked with Autoplicity, Summit Racing, Wrench Monkey, all of them. I even checked with the last manufacturer, ATP Automotive: nada.

I'm betting this is one of those parts that didn't fare well in service. Like most exhaust system components, over time rusted, seized up, and was removed completely or (like the ones I have) someone modified them by removing the butterfly valve and vacuum pot. In California, it will fail the smog check on a visual inspection just for that.

This part was used on a lot of Ford and Mercury products 81-86. I may have to go to a junkyard, crawl under some hulk in a puddle of oil, transmission fluid, and general putrefaction, then wrestle with two rusted, baked on nuts to remove one that's probably seized up anyway or just worn out. Then I can take it back to my shop, polish it up, unstick the valve/shaft, then the smog checker will be happy because it's there. This is my last resort.

I haven't gone to a junkyard for many years, but then I haven't gotten this deep into auto work since I was a teenager. Oh well, perhaps I can spin it into something good: Virtually going back in time and reliving youth...

[NoDrama43]

Steve is that a CA item only?

I have several early 5.0 motors that are complete with manifolds. I can check them to see if I have one on any of those motors.