1986 Utah SSP Rescue
 

I picked this car up from Salt Lake in September. Some of you may remember it from EBay over the summer. It was owned by the same family for approximately 20 years to the best of my knowledge. The gentleman I bought it from said his dad hardly drove it and it sat for the past 8-10 years. I did get it running and will be moving on to brakes and tires. It is my first “restoration,” although I’m not sure where I want to take it. I don’t have any information on its service life, but will be sifting through the threads to find Utah specific information. Thanks for the add and I look forward to learning from everyone here.

Nice save! I do recall this one, glad you were able to get it.

There’s quite a few threads on here RE: Utah SSP’s and I’m sure a few members here can help out.

Keep posting your progress updates and/or any images here too.

Did you check this part of the site to see if your VIN is in then,ist:
http://www.specialservicemustang.net/VINlist/86VIN.html

I checked the VIN registry and it’s not in there.

1FABP26M0GF257540

Here are some additional photos with the remaining SSP features that I’ve noticed (speedo and radio interference straps). It does still have holes in the A pillar for spot lights, the roof for the lightbar wiring, and the trunk for the antenna.

Good start, does it still have the custom UHP rear seat cushion cover gun case?

Unfortunately not! I do like those. Do you happen to know when they started using them? Thanks.

That I’m unsure, but it seems common with UHP SSPs.

Not much progress on the car. Brakes are almost done. Ended up with reman Ford calipers as the ones on there were rusted solid. Power steering rack is leaking from the passenger side bellow. Looking for suggestions on the power steering rack. Can’t decided on a reman, used OEM, new LMR, or send mine out to Turn One for rebuild. Looking for suggestions based on other members experiences. I’m leaning towards staying closer to stock.

I have not had to replace a steering rack in a good long while, so I hope someone else chimes in. I did finally add your car to the VIN Project -

http://www.specialservicemustang.net...info257540.htm

;)

I anxiously await future updates! Another one saved.

Where did you source the rotors, pads and shoes?

Bill,
Thanks for the add. The guy I purchased this one from supposedly had a second 86 Utah SSP. Maybe he will share some pics or info on that one if I reach back out.

brinkjm,
I bought most of the parts from Rock Auto. They seem to have the cheapest price point, however they ship from multiple hubs causing shipping charges from each hub that is ordered from. Otherwise, LMR and CJ's have exactly what you need. I admittedly got hung up on the difference between rotors from 86-87, which resulted in bearing and seal differences. So little to no money saved in the learning process, but that's what this was about.

Thanks to everyone following along the process. Hoping to bring the car to Carlisle and Foxtoberfest.

I was working on some documentation/cataloging and stumbled upon some factory stamps on the fenders and hood that I am unfamiliar with. Any thoughts?

I still have VIN stamps on the inner fenders which was nice, considering it has had front end damage from an accident. Also, I still had the T5 tag that seems to be correct as a June 23, 1986 3rd shift build (F2363). I could definitely be wrong though. Overall I was just checking for originality of what's left. I would like to remove the interior at some point to check for a build sheet.

Where else should I check for factory codes/stamps?

The stampings you see on the topside of the fenders (inside edge with hood open) and the Ford oval - those are the date stampings of the sheet metal. Those are genuine original Ford parts put on the vehicle as it went down the line.

The one pic where you see an additional flat piece of steel and numbers on it under the fender - depending on where it’s located (hard to tell in your image), but if it’s forward towards the front nose cone, that is the winglet that is welded to the inner fender structure and contains the last few digits of the actual VIN. There should be one on each side at the front of the car and are visible if you remove the fenders. If you remove the black plastic inner front wheel liners you can see those winglets, but won’t be able to really read the VIN if the fenders are still on.

This is a thread I posted over on Corral a few years back that contains A LOT of the info for where all the VIN’s should be and coding etc. It’s too lengthy to repost here, but there’s additional info posted by others too which is helpful for any Fox Mustang research.
https://www.corral.net/threads/ultim...#post-18639446

Cobra Jet,

Thank you for the info, sir. It was very informative. It sounds like aside from verifying the transmission date stamping on the housing and the topside rear VIN on the engine block, I probably have found everything that remains. I was able to locate the build sheet under the rear passenger carpet. Just the outline remains. I could only make out the last 5 digits of the VIN and most of the transmission code.

Glad the info helped.

At least you found a partial of the build sheet! Take pics of what remains of it, it’s still documentation to keep with the car.

How’s the restoration coming along or work your doing with the car? Have any recent pics to share?

No good updates since the brakes were finished. I think I decided on an LMR rack and pinion to replace my leaking unit, but I still need to order it. I slowly started cleaning interior trim pieces as I removed them to find the build sheet. Considering the significant improvement in weather, I may clean the carpet and remove the dash. I want to install an OEM AM/FM radio and a replacement seat belt chime.

Power steering update. I have removed everything except for the pump. I decided to go with a reman rack. I am hoping to reassemble over the next week or so. Parts list below:

BBB Rack and Pinion
Dorman Pump Reservoir
Edelmann Pressure and Return Lines
LMR Power Steering Cooler Tube
BBB inline filter
Dorman Rag Joint
HPS stainless hose clamps
Moog Outer Tie Rods

Interior update. I pulled the carpet and cleaned that up. I want to touch up some rust on the floor boards before I reinstall the carpet. I was able to fit an OEM radio back in, but can't get the it to mount properly. I also replaced the seat belt chime. I would like to get the worn headliner out before I get the interior put back together. Ill add some photos tomorrow.

I have been a little behind and haven’t gotten anything installed yet. Hopeful that it’ll get done this week. I’m not sure why, but I’m overly concerned about leaks from the lines connected to the rack. Probably due to all the posts and articles saying how easy the threads are to cross thread and/or strip. Hoping I get it right the first time. Thanks for following along.

I just wanted to provide everyone an update. All the power steering equipment was installed successfully. I think I have a seeping leak from the power steering pump reservoir so I’m monitoring that. I went for a test drive and the brakes were locking up. I went ahead and replaced the brake master cylinder and a couple of worn brake hoses. I may also have some minor seeping from the master cylinder to distribution valve lines. I’m hoping it’s just residual from the install after bench bleeding. Last thing I accomplished was getting four new tires installed. I’m getting very close to being ready for Carlisle. Anyone else going to be there?

Nice! I have those tires on my 66 Mustang, and have been very happy. Although not factory-original, they look era-correct too for a SSP. Have fun at Carlisle!

Did you get the tires online and a good deal for all 4? Or did you get them locally?

Cobra Jet,

I got them local. A friend of mine at a small shop offered me a competitive price. Hopefully this next weekend I can take it for a 30 minute ride or so and really begin to enjoy this thing.

So, heater core replacement is almost done. Definitely a painful job for someone as inexperienced as I am. I’m still getting a few drops from the drain hole. I’m hoping that’s just residual in the heater box. The heat definitely blows hot and no more smoke/steam from the vents and dash. Still hoping to replace the rear main before Foxtoberfest. Looking less likely though.

Well, I got lucky and got some lift time at a garage a friend works at. I was able to replace a leaking rear main seal, install a new FRPP clutch kit, and FRPP steel input shaft bearing retainer. Very productive day right before the 500 miles to Foxtoberfest!

How was your journey?

Did you get any images from Foxtoberfest that can be shared here in a different post of the SSP’s in attendance?

Sorry I missed you there. Saw your car, but never got the chance to meet.

Cobra Jet, I took a couple photos. I’ll find another post to put them up. I also did t take many photos. I also regret not meeting all the SSP owners there. The journey was really enjoyable. The car drove really well considering everything that has been done to bring it back to fighting strength. I think the total mileage was just at 900 miles for the whole trip.

ImEvil1, I am sorry as well! I will have to do better next time. Clearly a great group of people!

A couple months back I staged the car to look more “in service” for future car shows. I know the lightbar is not Utah spec, but the price was right. Just sat it on top, put the decals on magnets, and found a license plate to match the car’s patina.

The first pic looks really neat with the patina and decals on it!

How or where did you find the Utah license plates?

The car looks great with the patina. I know it's become fashionable to have a patina car, but authentic wear & tear never goes out of style IMO.

Cobra Jet, thank you for the comments. I found the license plates on EBay. I’m really pleased with the patina plate. It has several years staked on each other. Possibly saw service on an SSP in its day!

Bill, thank you for the comments. I really grew attached to the patina so I threw some Poppy’s Patina high gloss to seal it in.

Rick

A little work has gone into the car since last year. Thanks to community members like Anthony and Jon, I was able to source some OE SSP wheels and sand beige seats. Juan got me hooked up with some Utah door decals. I was also able to install some new KYB rear shocks and quad shocks to reduce some of the rough ride. I’m excited to get the car displayed at Carlisle in a couple weeks. More photos to come once the car gets staged at the show. I hope to see some other SSPs there!

So many of you probably saw the photos of the car from Carlisle. It definitely has come a long way in the past year and a half. Other than some small items (headliner, sun visors, etc), it is time to decide how far this will go. Does this go to paint and body? Do I just mitigate the rust on the undercarriage and engine compartment, leaving the body panels patina? The engine also has several seeping leaks from bad gaskets, so I’d like to pull it and do a refresh, but try to avoid a full rebuild. Let me know your thoughts!

Well, the question is kind of open ended. The bigger question should be how far do you want to go with it from a financial perspective?

The engine aspect, definitely reseal it and go through it (new timing chain, new oil pump, gaskets, thermostat, etc). The engine is easy, tons of Ford 5.0 parts around to refresh it.

Do you want a nut/bolt resto from ground up, or do you want it restored so some patina is left?

It does look cool with the Patina though, have to admit it shows “use” which we all know these SSP’s were not rolling showrooms when they were in service…. They were driven, in some cases hard, but always Fleet maintained. They showed signs of paint chips, door dings, scrapes, scratches, wear/tear etc.

IMO and don’t get me wrong, a totally nut and bolt SSP restoration is neat, it’s like it just rolled off the factory floor - BUT then after all that time/money, some are afraid to drive the and get dust on them or risk a rock chip etc. At that level of restoration and worries what fun is the car then if the owner is going to be afraid to take it out and cruise it?

My 93 is restored with patina. I like it like that, it shows it was used and I don’t really care if it doesn’t meet the level of a full blown resto comparison. Meaning, when it was in TX after it was auctioned and owned by several, it was repainted back to its proper marked colors. The exterior, interior and engine bay when I received it, was not in very good shape. It literally took me 1.5 days just to buff the exterior (compound/polish) to get it to look decent. It is in nice shape but there’s some imperfections from use. The interior of the engine bay and chassis shows its “use” or patina along the inner fenders, K-member, firewall, and rad support. The interior, I removed everything except the dash shell and re-dyed back to its original color. The carpet my wife and I cleaned it very well. The seats, well I haven’t found front LX seats yet that are correct so right now it has 1990 tweed sport seats in it.

Overall, it’s in good shape - it’s clean with the patina as mentioned. I’m fixing things as I go just like anyone else, but I will not be doing any nut/bolt restoration nor will the chassis or engine bay look brand new. I am fixing things with correct Ford parts when I can find them. I’m also gathering period correct equipment as well so it can be like it was when in-service. I don’t have the funds to go that deep. PLUS as I mentioned above, I AM THAT GUY who would be so concerned after spending all that $$$ about getting a nut/bolt restoration chipped, damaged etc that it just wouldn’t be fun to drive or cruise it. As it sits now, I keep it clean, I can drive it anywhere and don’t have any such concerns if a rock from the road pings off the side of the car or bugs bounce off the front bumper cover. I mean I am very OCD with it as far as detailing it and the details as to how it presents, and I’m careful when driving, but know what I mean?

As far as the financial aspect - weigh it out IF doing a total ground up to showroom new restoration…. What I mean is, will you ever recoup the total $$$ vested in the vehicle from purchase, to repairs, to the ground up resto job? If you’re upside down if needing to sell, then all the time/money put in didn’t mean anything other than enjoying doing it…

These SSP’s are fun, a challenge today to gather all of the period correct equipment, and they definitley get attention at shows and on the road.

It’s like keep it fun and be able to drive it, or have a gigantic 1:18 scale model that collects dust, stare at it because you don’t want to drive it in fear of dust/bugs/road debris or don’t want it to get rained on… LOL…